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Why You Need Case Lube

​Okay, you’ve got your cases sparkly-clean and are now ready to introduce them into your reloading machine. But wait! There’s still one more preparatory step, one more thing you need, to do the job right, and that’s case lube. This is a liquid lubricant that, when you apply a thin coating over the cases before introducing them into the machine’s sizing die, immensely lessens the amount of force you need to generate onto the machine’s handle, to raise and lower the ram. More specifically, it lessens the amount of force needed to introduce a case into the resizing die at Station 1, and then extract it from the die afterward.

​On bottleneck cases, failure to lube will typically cause the case to stick in the die. The case rim will fail, and the case remain stuck in the die. Removing the stuck case is an annoyance at minimum.
​Those of us who do a lot of high-volume reloading have been known to develop what’s been called “Dillon elbow,” the reloading equivalent of tennis elbow. Personally, it doesn’t hit me in the elbow; it’s always hit me in the wrist. Just a quirk of how my body works. Now, you show me someone with Dillon elbow, I’ll show you someone who thought case lube was unnecessary.

​Reducing the amount of force required to cycle the handle on the reloading machine really does reduce the amount of wear-and-tear on your body over time. It also reduces the amount of wear-and-tear on the machine. Less force applied to parts over time equals less wear equals a longer-lasting, happier reloading machine. Sure, Dillon Precision has your back with their No B.S. Lifetime Warranty and 1-800 customer service line. While that’s a very good thing, still, why beat up your reloading machine any more than you absolutely have to?

​Shooters over the years have come up with numerous ways to get the lube out of the bottle, and a thin coating onto the cases. My favorite way is to use a plastic freezer bag, squirt a few pumps of lube into the interior of the empty bag, then partially fill it with cases. Close up the bag, and then knead it around in your hands. Cases around will rub against the interior walls of the bag; the required thin coating of slick lube will be transferred to the cases. I then open up the bag and sit it next to my reloading machine, where I can easily reach it with my right hand while reloading.

​I will admit that, when reloading 9mm Parabellum, its tapered cases go into the resizing die, and especially extract from it, so smoothly and easily, I rarely use lube when reloading 9mm. I should, because when you combine the tapered 9mm case WITH case lube, cycling the handle just gets ridiculously easy. For any straight-walled pistol case, i.e. the vast majority of them, or a much-longer rifle case, case lube is not optional. I view case lube as a necessary part of the machine.

13 Comments

  • Henry S
    Posted July 22, 2024 at 9:15 pm

    When I always used a non-progressive loader, I only lubed bottle-necked cases. I have recently been intro’d to reloading “a la Dillon”, and feel the need to try it out. Thanks for providing impetus, and a starting “modus operandi”.

  • Dgang
    Posted July 22, 2024 at 10:35 pm

    You forgot mention the annoyance of having to wipe the lube off the cases. I’ll just stick to running straight wall cartridges without the lube. Never had “Dillon” wrist or elbow and I have loaded many thousands.

  • Lonnie McClain
    Posted July 22, 2024 at 10:40 pm

    Lubing cases is a requirement of reloading always has and always will. I’ve found not only does it make reloading easier it also makes for a more perfect resize.

  • GW
    Posted July 23, 2024 at 12:14 am

    I wet wash my brass with a pinch of Dawn and Lemy Shine. It really makes the brass shine like new. The downside of my removing the tarnish is I believe the tarnish lubes the case going through the dies. So I get shiny brass but lose natural lubrication on straight wall brass. Thats just my opinion guys nothing scientific. Alas now I must lube the brass.

  • Thomas Lemonds
    Posted July 23, 2024 at 12:48 am

    I too use the described method of lubing my 9mm cases. I find that it makes the whole process very smooth for the most part. I still get the occasional case that sticks a bit on the expander and haven’t quite got that part figured out yet.

  • Mark M
    Posted July 23, 2024 at 4:40 am

    The need to use case lube on 9mm cases is fairly dependent on the brand of dies you’re using and whether or not you’ve cleaned your brass to the point that there is no residue left on them from the tumbling process to act as a lubricant on its own. This is especially true if you steel pin wash or otherwise are using metal media to clean your brass. Without using lube, you run the risk of having case material transfer itself onto the sizing die, which, in turn, will end up scratching your reloaded cases.

  • Art Thayer
    Posted July 23, 2024 at 10:51 am

    I totally agree with the lubing process. I lube all cases before sizing. I usually spread any number of cases on a red rag that has become saturated with Dillon spray lube. After spraying the cases and rotating them and spraying again, sizing is easier and prevents all my cases from seizing.

  • The Human Manual
    The Human Manual
    Posted July 23, 2024 at 3:44 pm

    For removing lube from loaded cartridges, we’re lazy. We use a vibratory case cleaner with plain corncob, and add a tablespoon of alcohol to the media. Run the loaded ammo for 10-15 minutes to remove the case lube. Keep this media separate from media used for cleaning, as it eventually loads up with case lube.

  • Bill Brickenstein
    Posted July 24, 2024 at 3:13 pm

    Overall comment; I thought th point of using carbide or teflon sizing dies was to avoid the messy steps of applying and then removing case lube from straight wall cartridges.
    I tend to over-complicate things (result of working in Nuclear power). I tumble range brass to get the worst grit off, then size and deprive with a carbide die in a single stage press. I tumble in a steel pin rotary tumbler to clean the primer pockets, then hand prime. (The only problem I ever had with my 550B is misfeed primers, which dumps powder all over the machine.)

  • Danny81
    Posted July 25, 2024 at 6:23 pm

    I’m kind of a newbie to this, so my question involves lube inside the case. Great idea to put cases in a bag and squish them around, but you’re gonna get lube inside, too. How would that affect performance of a round? I know it’s slow, but rolling straight-walled cases on a pad mitigates that. Just my opinion.

  • tlbaker
    tlbaker
    Posted July 25, 2024 at 6:58 pm

    Typically, I do not use lube for 9mm, 40 S&W, or 45 Auto. I tried lube on multiple occasions but found powder building up on the funnel and the case mouth. I decided to quit using the lube because of this problem since I felt the powder consistency was more important than reducing the required “elbow grease”. For those that lube, where am I going wrong?

  • Mike C. Smith
    Posted July 29, 2024 at 10:12 pm

    I love these types of post. I’m a Dillon 9mm reloader by the thousands and thousands. In a conversation I had with Dillon they recommended that I always lube the cases (I’m using a Dillon Square Deal which only used Dillon dies). I make my own lube and I have found what seems to be a good lubing technique (at least for me). I use a gallon plastic jar, I think it was a Costco big pretzel container). I spray my lube into the jar, then I put in some brass (maybe a hundred pieces). Then I shake the jar so that the brass rolls around on the inside of the jar and and it coats the brass cased (there is a small learning curve to know how much brass to put in. All I can say is my brass is coated and it works great for me. It’s very quick to do this.

  • Rick Gibbs
    Posted July 30, 2024 at 10:54 pm

    Always use lube. Pistol, rifle it just doesn’t matter. I resize everything on a single stage after lubing the cases. Even with 9mm and we shoot 30,000 9 mm rounds a year. After they are lubed/sized they go into a wet tumbler for a final rinse. A little dawn and lemon shine and they are really clean. Anal I know but then my brass is the heart of the reload and I take care of it. I cannot tell you how many times some of my brass has been reloaded. In excess of 20 times in some instances.

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