I’m sometimes encountered with a conversation that goes like this:
The other guy: “I want to learn how to load my own ammunition, but I don’t know where to begin. Help me!”
Me: “What kind of a gun do you own?”
The other guy: “I don’t know! Just tell me what to buy!”
I might suggest to this gentleman that he’d be better suited to take up knitting, but he doesprovide a unique opportunity because I think that there is one firearm which provides an ideal platform for learning how to hand load – the .357 Magnum revolver.
Or, more specifically, I think it’s a great idea to take up hand loading by starting with .38 Special ammunition that is fired out of a .357 Magnum wheel gun. In fact, this is the exact platform that I used to learn reloading, myself.
For starters, there’s some benefits that come from simply using a revolver:
1. No bending over to pick brass off the ground.
2. No springs for tuning or rails for cleaning or confusing matters if the gun gets jammed up at the range – revolvers are easy.
3. Two words: “single” and “action.”
And the benefits of .38 Special ammunition:
1. No bending over to pick brass off the ground!
2. Light recoiling .38 Special out of a heavy revolver is a pleasure that every shooter should experience.
3. .38 Special pressure is so low, the brass pretty much lasts forever.
4. .38 Special brass is cheap to begin with, but if you find some on the ground… that kind of free pretty much lasts forever.
5. Lead .38 Special rounds are probably the cheapest bullets you’ll ever find.
6. .38 Special wadcutter and semi-wadcutter rounds make the coolest bullet holes in the history of ever.
Finally, this ammunition and gun combination can be graciously forgiving to somebody who makes an error at the reloading bench, such as:
1. If the handloader should accidentally put a smidge too much powder in the brass, then he’s got a super strong receiver to soak up that error.
2. If the handloader should accidentally put a smidge too little powder in the case, then there’s no moving parts to waste the ammunition’s energy upon, so the bullet will likely dribble out the barrel and everything will continue functioning just fine without a jam.
3. If the handloader should accidentally load the bullet too long, there’s plenty of space in that big ol’ cylinder to still fire the round without jamming anything up, unlike if it were loaded into a magazine or a firing chamber.
4. If the handloader should accidentally set the bullet too deep, the .38 Special case is mostly empty, anyway, so there’s less likely to be an overpressure situation.
And the most beneficial benefit to learning how to reload with a .38 Special? No bending over to pick brass off the ground!

12 Comments
Dgang
The cartridge I started reloading for thirty years ago. Could reload a box of 50 rds. for around $3.50. Now reload for 11 different cartridges.
John Kleespies
This so true!!! Compared to when I started, I don’t even think I can get a primer for the cost of what I was making an entire .38spl.
John Cooper
I 100 percent agree with everything in this article. I love shooting 38 special out of my Ruger Blackhawk 7 and a 1/2 inch barrel. I could shoot this all day long. It’s so easy to reload 38 special too. One of my all time favorite guns to shoot. I’m getting another in stainless. Thanks for the article.
John Kleespies
I think I could right another article on “learn how to shoot with a long-barreled revolver.” .38spl and a longer sight radius… Not only does it help with accurate aiming, but you can actually SEE the sight movement from the solid gun, versus something like a 4″ auto that’s bouncing all over.
Adam
My dad sent me his XL650 and I learned on the Ruger GP100 with .38 SPL and .357 MAG. Glad I did because I was able to learn a lot without hurting the revolver or myself.
John Kleespies
Revolvers are SOLID!
Sal1950
Great observation and choices !!!
With hindsight I did just about everything wrong. Due to costs and other factors I first learned to reload on 44 Magnum back around 1982, factory ammo was so expensive and I was so poor that if I wanted to shoot it often I had to learn reloading. This was in DBI (the Days Before the Internet) so the only way I learned was reading how-to books. The Lyman & Sierra manuals and others I can’t remember were invaluable.. I bought a fully progressive Dillon RL450 press which was fairly new to the market then, some Lee dies and went to work. Thankfully I was a auto-mechanic with those skills, and the skills of “learning by doing”, which was the only way in those times. Luckily I never had any kabooms or other accidents but it did come very close.
I want to add one bit of advise for any reloader, or even just a factory load shooter for that matter. ANY TIME you pull the trigger on a round and it doesn’t do a normal LOUD BANG, STOP and FIND OUT WHY!. It’s only for this reason that I never had a incident but I have witnessed about 3 kabooms over 50 years of range shooting. (did you forget the power, or it didn’t ignite, and the “primer only” load drove the bullet into the barrel?) I’ve seen this at least twice. If the bullet is in the barrel but you just pull the trigger again on a revolver or just clear the bad round on a auto, I guarantee that weapon will BLOW UP!
(Did that last round sound “funny” to you in any way? Check the weapons barrel, is it clear? I keep an ole cleaning rod on the bench to check for these things, it only takes a second or two).
John Kleespies
100% correct! Check out my article on squibs https://reloader.com/articles/what-is-a-squib/ and leave a comment there and then spread it around– other than the basic rules of safe gun handling, this one is huge and we need to talk about it more. You’re right– I’ve seen squibs happen with factory ammo, too. If I really think about it, though, I think I’ve actually seen overcharges in factory more than undercharges…
Eric
I taught myself to load .38 and .44 with an inexpensive Lee Loader, and I am glad I did.
The lessons learned from doing each step, by hand, were invaluable.
You will need a good manual, a caliper, a scale, and a soft-faced hammer; also a bit of patience.
Now, whenever I have an issue with my single-stage press, or my Dillon 550, I have the experience to identify and resolve the issue in a logical manner.
John Kleespies
So true about knowing how to use a single stage, helping to run the progressive. Same thing with gun smithing. The more I build guns, I feel like I can shoot them better.
MIke
I started reloading .38/.357 mag. about 40 years ago on an RCBS Rock Chucker. I learned to load everything from wax bullets powered only by a primer for indoor shooting, up to 1400 fps 125 gr. man-stoppers.
The .357 magnum is the most versatile hand gun for reloading, and a pleasure to reload & shoot.
John Kleespies
Wax rounds are cool!!! Never shot one and always wondered how they are in the “it’s a mess” compartment. Or if the “leading” is limited to the barrel, and if you can just shoot it out with a real bullet…?
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