Hard Up Stroke
Quote from Reloader on October 20, 2012, 7:50 pmIm about to clear 2k rounds of loading on my 650. An issue Im seeing now is on the "up stroke" there is much more force needed now then when I first started to load. I noticed that the cases are getting "stuck" on the powder funnel, which is making it hard on the up stroke to remove the powder funnel from the case after it dropped the powder. Any ideas on what to do to fix this?
Im about to clear 2k rounds of loading on my 650. An issue Im seeing now is on the "up stroke" there is much more force needed now then when I first started to load. I noticed that the cases are getting "stuck" on the powder funnel, which is making it hard on the up stroke to remove the powder funnel from the case after it dropped the powder. Any ideas on what to do to fix this?
Quote from Reloader on October 21, 2012, 1:11 amDo cases get stuck if you actuate the powder measure by pushing up a case by hand?
If a case is fine going by hand. I would next check the primer disc. If material gets stuck under it. It becomes harder to turn. That will put a drag on the handle for the upstroke. And if there is enough binding on the primer disc, you can break the primer actuator lever (done this twice now, caused by old primer stuck in case when tryin to put new one in).
Do cases get stuck if you actuate the powder measure by pushing up a case by hand?
If a case is fine going by hand. I would next check the primer disc. If material gets stuck under it. It becomes harder to turn. That will put a drag on the handle for the upstroke. And if there is enough binding on the primer disc, you can break the primer actuator lever (done this twice now, caused by old primer stuck in case when tryin to put new one in).
Quote from Reloader on November 28, 2012, 2:20 amI called up Dillon and told them my issue with the "up stroke" that there is much more force needed now then when I first started to load. I noticed that the cases are getting "stuck" on the powder funnel, which is making it hard on the up stroke to remove the powder funnel from the case after it dropped the powder. The first thing he asked me was what method I used to clean my brass. I told him Im using the Stainless Steel pin method. He said that was my problem. The stainless method cleans the brass so damn well on the inside of the brass that it takes ALL the carbon off of it. He said that what the corn cob tumblers dont take off acts like a "lube" and prevents the cases from sticking. I guess this makes sense. He told me the alternative was to rub a little case lube on the outside of the powder funnel every 10 rounds or so. This is my only down fall to using the Stainless steel pin method.
I called up Dillon and told them my issue with the "up stroke" that there is much more force needed now then when I first started to load. I noticed that the cases are getting "stuck" on the powder funnel, which is making it hard on the up stroke to remove the powder funnel from the case after it dropped the powder. The first thing he asked me was what method I used to clean my brass. I told him Im using the Stainless Steel pin method. He said that was my problem. The stainless method cleans the brass so damn well on the inside of the brass that it takes ALL the carbon off of it. He said that what the corn cob tumblers dont take off acts like a "lube" and prevents the cases from sticking. I guess this makes sense. He told me the alternative was to rub a little case lube on the outside of the powder funnel every 10 rounds or so. This is my only down fall to using the Stainless steel pin method.
Quote from Reloader on December 14, 2012, 8:51 pmI helped a friend solve this problem. This is more of a problem when using new cases, especially Starline (good stuff). He also uses stainless pins. S/S pins work great. After tumbling with the pins, dry the cases and tumble them again with dry media for about a half hour or so. This puts a coating on them that allows the expander to work without sticking. No lube on the expander is needed this way. You don't want lube on the inside of the case anyway. Tumble new cases with dry media before loading them and you won't ever have problems. Before you load the dry polished cases, remove the powder thru die (expander) and polish brass build-up from it with 1500 wet/dry sandpaper until all the brass is removed. This will keep the build-up from scratching the inside of the case necks and make for an easy handle return. You won't believe how well this works. Clem
I helped a friend solve this problem. This is more of a problem when using new cases, especially Starline (good stuff). He also uses stainless pins. S/S pins work great. After tumbling with the pins, dry the cases and tumble them again with dry media for about a half hour or so. This puts a coating on them that allows the expander to work without sticking. No lube on the expander is needed this way. You don't want lube on the inside of the case anyway. Tumble new cases with dry media before loading them and you won't ever have problems. Before you load the dry polished cases, remove the powder thru die (expander) and polish brass build-up from it with 1500 wet/dry sandpaper until all the brass is removed. This will keep the build-up from scratching the inside of the case necks and make for an easy handle return. You won't believe how well this works. Clem
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