223 Problems
Quote from Reloader on October 12, 2011, 2:27 amI'm about to give up on loading .223 I can never seem to get them to function reliability. I have 2 .223 rifles , a colt original with triangular hand guards and a S&W M&P. I've tried lyman dies, dillion, RCBS and Redding. I use Dillion equipment including case trimmer and head spacing gauge. The rounds will usually work under live fire but will not cycle in the gun manually. At times I actually have to pry the bolt open with a screwdriver to get the round out. The last batch would cycle pretty well in the colt but not at all in the M&P. I use mostly military brass and but have some commercial and it's the same problem. The resized rounds fit perfectly in the Dillon head space gauge. I believe the problem is with the case. I tried to cycle and empty resized case (no bullet) and had the same problem. All factory ammo cycles fine manually and under fire. I also load 308. 30/06, and 30-30 and have no problem with them. Any suggestions before I just give up on it and just buy surplus ammo? I'm out of ideas!
I'm about to give up on loading .223 I can never seem to get them to function reliability. I have 2 .223 rifles , a colt original with triangular hand guards and a S&W M&P. I've tried lyman dies, dillion, RCBS and Redding. I use Dillion equipment including case trimmer and head spacing gauge. The rounds will usually work under live fire but will not cycle in the gun manually. At times I actually have to pry the bolt open with a screwdriver to get the round out. The last batch would cycle pretty well in the colt but not at all in the M&P. I use mostly military brass and but have some commercial and it's the same problem. The resized rounds fit perfectly in the Dillon head space gauge. I believe the problem is with the case. I tried to cycle and empty resized case (no bullet) and had the same problem. All factory ammo cycles fine manually and under fire. I also load 308. 30/06, and 30-30 and have no problem with them. Any suggestions before I just give up on it and just buy surplus ammo? I'm out of ideas!
Quote from Reloader on October 12, 2011, 3:00 pmTWo things to check. First, for a semi-automatic rifle, a sized case (with the lube wiped off) should drop in flush with the bottom step of the case gage. Drop a factory round into the gage- your resized cases should drop in to the same depth. Next, once the case is properly sized, hold the case up into the gage and check the case mouth. After resizing, it must not protrude above the upper step of that end of the gage. If it does, then the brass must be trimmed before loading it.
TWo things to check. First, for a semi-automatic rifle, a sized case (with the lube wiped off) should drop in flush with the bottom step of the case gage. Drop a factory round into the gage- your resized cases should drop in to the same depth. Next, once the case is properly sized, hold the case up into the gage and check the case mouth. After resizing, it must not protrude above the upper step of that end of the gage. If it does, then the brass must be trimmed before loading it.
Quote from Reloader on January 8, 2012, 4:47 pmI strongly believe that you need to use a Dillon Case Gauge for the .223 so that you may adjust the case shoulder properly. This is what the the case head spaces on. You should also determine that your cases are not "too long or short" with the case gauge.
Do the above before you install primer, powder & bullet.
Now check for over all length (OAL) to insure that the round is set up per specifications found in your reloading manual for the bullet that you are using.
I believe the above will solve your problems since you rounds appear to have the same problems in two different weapons.
I strongly believe that you need to use a Dillon Case Gauge for the .223 so that you may adjust the case shoulder properly. This is what the the case head spaces on. You should also determine that your cases are not "too long or short" with the case gauge.
Do the above before you install primer, powder & bullet.
Now check for over all length (OAL) to insure that the round is set up per specifications found in your reloading manual for the bullet that you are using.
I believe the above will solve your problems since you rounds appear to have the same problems in two different weapons.
Quote from Reloader on April 13, 2012, 1:05 pmIf you're using a crimp die, be careful that it's not set so that the shoulder is being pushed back. I have done this in the past, and have found that otherwise good cases don't function properly. They start out good in terms of being sized properly, but I screwed the crimp die down too far, and it caused the shoulder to be set back such that there was a slight bulge in the case. It's hard to catch unless you know what you're looking for.
I found that some cases wouldn't fire and then wouldn't easily eject using the charging handle. They appear to be ok using the wilson gauge, but they just didn't function properly.
My suggestion - remove the crimp die and see if that helps. Then you can slowly adjust it back if you feel it's important.
It's very frustrating as well as time consuming.
Good luck.
If you're using a crimp die, be careful that it's not set so that the shoulder is being pushed back. I have done this in the past, and have found that otherwise good cases don't function properly. They start out good in terms of being sized properly, but I screwed the crimp die down too far, and it caused the shoulder to be set back such that there was a slight bulge in the case. It's hard to catch unless you know what you're looking for.
I found that some cases wouldn't fire and then wouldn't easily eject using the charging handle. They appear to be ok using the wilson gauge, but they just didn't function properly.
My suggestion - remove the crimp die and see if that helps. Then you can slowly adjust it back if you feel it's important.
It's very frustrating as well as time consuming.
Good luck.
Quote from Reloader on June 25, 2012, 11:54 pmhow does the empty factory rounds measure in case length to bulk brass? i have noticed some extreme differences in case lengths in bulk brass
how does the empty factory rounds measure in case length to bulk brass? i have noticed some extreme differences in case lengths in bulk brass
Quote from Reloader on June 26, 2012, 2:44 pmfired cases will almost always measure longer than new, unfired brass. The SAAMI standard for .223 cases is a maximum length of 1.760", minimum of 1.740". The suggested trim-to case length is 1.750" after resizing.
fired cases will almost always measure longer than new, unfired brass. The SAAMI standard for .223 cases is a maximum length of 1.760", minimum of 1.740". The suggested trim-to case length is 1.750" after resizing.
Quote from Reloader on October 1, 2013, 1:26 amI know this is an old thread but searching the web I came across this post. I'm having the exact problem on my .223 reloads. My sequence for reloading is:
Size, deprime, remove primer crimp, trim to 1.75, clean then load.
OAL is to bullets spec's.
Factory ammo is no problem but my reloads jam just like z3beemer's.
I know this is an old thread but searching the web I came across this post. I'm having the exact problem on my .223 reloads. My sequence for reloading is:
Size, deprime, remove primer crimp, trim to 1.75, clean then load.
OAL is to bullets spec's.
Factory ammo is no problem but my reloads jam just like z3beemer's.
Quote from Reloader on November 1, 2013, 4:52 pmThis is an old post, but I too have had the same problem.
First, two different rifles bolt action/ semi auto. if this is what you have, then you will probably need to set your resizer die differentlly for the two rifles. I had the RCBS FL sizer die & it wasn't resizing my cases properly for my AR. When I switched to the RCBS small base die it solved the problem. The small base die will bring the cases to standard minimum specs and that shoul work perfectlly for your smith&wesson.
Hope this is helpful.
This is an old post, but I too have had the same problem.
First, two different rifles bolt action/ semi auto. if this is what you have, then you will probably need to set your resizer die differentlly for the two rifles. I had the RCBS FL sizer die & it wasn't resizing my cases properly for my AR. When I switched to the RCBS small base die it solved the problem. The small base die will bring the cases to standard minimum specs and that shoul work perfectlly for your smith&wesson.
Hope this is helpful.