308 and 223 using multiple toolheads to get best results
Quote from Reloader on April 13, 2017, 7:20 pmI'll start by saying I'm very new to reloading and my Dillon 650 is my first reloader and this is my first post. I hope that I can ask folks that have much more experience than myself for their opinions. I realize that everyone has an opinion about this stuff and some have very strong feelings.
I'm looking to load for "match type" results within reason, I'm not made of money and I have two kids to put thru college so every dollar counts and my time is valuable to me and my family. The rifles I'm reloading for are all AR platforms. Also I'm not competing and my life does not depend on this, it's supposed to be for fun, family time, and pride that's all. I'm only shooting out to 200 yards for now, I have access to a 1000 yard range but my groups with the 308 at 200 yards are not tight enough to move over to the 1K range (so far for the 308 I have really only used mil surplus ammo), even then I don't really expect to ever really shoot out past 600 yards, the time and expense to this effectively just isn't there for me today and if I was going out to 1K there are better calibers and bolt gun is a better option. So we can say that bullet pointing, annealing, and concentricity tools just aren't something I'm interested in right now either. Also I know all of this starts with quality components assume I'm using them, I try not to buy anything from midway that doesn't have at least 4.8 stars but I'm not going to spend 75 cents plus for one piece of brass it just isn't worth it to me.
I'll deprime everything using a universal deprime, and of course at this point I'll swage if necessary, then I will steel media tumble. I do this with everything so from my prespective this step doesn't even really count as a step it's just part of the process.
First toolhead starts with an RCBS lube die (I have tested and it seems to work pretty well, not opposed to dillon spray lube I have it and have used it but if you could only put lube where you want it why wouldn't you do it), then I'll use the Dillon trim die to resize and trim if necessary and then the lyman M die (I know this is supposed to be for cast bullets which I'm not doing but what I have read says it provides for very uniform neck tension on jacketed bullets, uniform neck tension equals consistency). First question, should I do something else here I have read a ton about two step resizing using a body die and a necking die you can spend allot of money here if you want, what do you guys think again looking for "match type results", what else can I do to improve here?
Next is Lyman case prep station, I'll chamfer inside and out (lightly, not looking for an edge here, I just want to clean up and make as smooth as possible) then I'll deburr the flashhole and uniform the primer pocket. Question two is there anything else I can do here to improve appreciably.
Next I'll tumble with corncob media and dillon polish to remove the oil and to get them especially shiny. They were already shiny the steel media does a darn good job. I have walnut as well, it's a little more abrasive do I gain anything by using it instead of corncob?
Second toolhead I don't need to resize so I have an open spot is there something else I should put in here, I'll drop powder and won't bell the case, I'll use the powder measure but I also have a camera (dillons PM seems pretty good to me it always seems to be within +- .1gr, I know there are more accurate ways, but weighing and pouring every load and measuring case volumes just doesn't make sense from a time perspective today), then I'll seat the bullet (no bullet feeder yet) and then I'll crimp (I'm using the dillon die from the set). Question four is there anything else I can do to improve here, is a redding micro crimp die worth it, again best results considering time and money?
I appreciate your time in reading this, I know it is kind of long but reloading for quality takes a little time, I also appreciate any feedback you can give me. All information is good information even if i can't use the info today it is still good to know.
I'll start by saying I'm very new to reloading and my Dillon 650 is my first reloader and this is my first post. I hope that I can ask folks that have much more experience than myself for their opinions. I realize that everyone has an opinion about this stuff and some have very strong feelings.
I'm looking to load for "match type" results within reason, I'm not made of money and I have two kids to put thru college so every dollar counts and my time is valuable to me and my family. The rifles I'm reloading for are all AR platforms. Also I'm not competing and my life does not depend on this, it's supposed to be for fun, family time, and pride that's all. I'm only shooting out to 200 yards for now, I have access to a 1000 yard range but my groups with the 308 at 200 yards are not tight enough to move over to the 1K range (so far for the 308 I have really only used mil surplus ammo), even then I don't really expect to ever really shoot out past 600 yards, the time and expense to this effectively just isn't there for me today and if I was going out to 1K there are better calibers and bolt gun is a better option. So we can say that bullet pointing, annealing, and concentricity tools just aren't something I'm interested in right now either. Also I know all of this starts with quality components assume I'm using them, I try not to buy anything from midway that doesn't have at least 4.8 stars but I'm not going to spend 75 cents plus for one piece of brass it just isn't worth it to me.
I'll deprime everything using a universal deprime, and of course at this point I'll swage if necessary, then I will steel media tumble. I do this with everything so from my prespective this step doesn't even really count as a step it's just part of the process.
First toolhead starts with an RCBS lube die (I have tested and it seems to work pretty well, not opposed to dillon spray lube I have it and have used it but if you could only put lube where you want it why wouldn't you do it), then I'll use the Dillon trim die to resize and trim if necessary and then the lyman M die (I know this is supposed to be for cast bullets which I'm not doing but what I have read says it provides for very uniform neck tension on jacketed bullets, uniform neck tension equals consistency). First question, should I do something else here I have read a ton about two step resizing using a body die and a necking die you can spend allot of money here if you want, what do you guys think again looking for "match type results", what else can I do to improve here?
Next is Lyman case prep station, I'll chamfer inside and out (lightly, not looking for an edge here, I just want to clean up and make as smooth as possible) then I'll deburr the flashhole and uniform the primer pocket. Question two is there anything else I can do here to improve appreciably.
Next I'll tumble with corncob media and dillon polish to remove the oil and to get them especially shiny. They were already shiny the steel media does a darn good job. I have walnut as well, it's a little more abrasive do I gain anything by using it instead of corncob?
Second toolhead I don't need to resize so I have an open spot is there something else I should put in here, I'll drop powder and won't bell the case, I'll use the powder measure but I also have a camera (dillons PM seems pretty good to me it always seems to be within +- .1gr, I know there are more accurate ways, but weighing and pouring every load and measuring case volumes just doesn't make sense from a time perspective today), then I'll seat the bullet (no bullet feeder yet) and then I'll crimp (I'm using the dillon die from the set). Question four is there anything else I can do to improve here, is a redding micro crimp die worth it, again best results considering time and money?
I appreciate your time in reading this, I know it is kind of long but reloading for quality takes a little time, I also appreciate any feedback you can give me. All information is good information even if i can't use the info today it is still good to know.
Quote from Reloader on April 14, 2017, 4:37 pmIf you are using match projectiles, I would skip the crimping step. Match bullets lack a crimp groove, so any attempt to crimp will deform the projectile.
In your processing toolhead, run the universal depriming die in station 1, lube die in 2, trimmer in 4. The trimmer motor is wide enough to preclude installing dies on either side.
On your loading toolhead, use the Lyman M die in 1, powder drop in 2, bullet seat in 4.
Be sure to use a headspace case gage to adjust the trim die, set the trim die headspace so cases drop to flush with the lower step on the gage, since you are shooting semiautomatic rifles.
If you are using match projectiles, I would skip the crimping step. Match bullets lack a crimp groove, so any attempt to crimp will deform the projectile.
In your processing toolhead, run the universal depriming die in station 1, lube die in 2, trimmer in 4. The trimmer motor is wide enough to preclude installing dies on either side.
On your loading toolhead, use the Lyman M die in 1, powder drop in 2, bullet seat in 4.
Be sure to use a headspace case gage to adjust the trim die, set the trim die headspace so cases drop to flush with the lower step on the gage, since you are shooting semiautomatic rifles.