357/38
Quote from Reloader on December 3, 2007, 8:30 pmIm planning on reloading for these calibers.I just picked up a Ruger GP100 in 357 and with the way ammo is costing it is more economical to reload.Any hints or tips will be greatly appreciated.
Im planning on reloading for these calibers.I just picked up a Ruger GP100 in 357 and with the way ammo is costing it is more economical to reload.Any hints or tips will be greatly appreciated.
Quote from Reloader on December 4, 2007, 5:47 pmYou can first save $ by keeping your brass. Most handgun cases can safety be reloaded 10-15 times or more. Next, consider using cast lead projectiles instead of jacketed ones. Finally, purchase in volume. Most places discount bullets bought in quantities of 1000, primers by 5000, powder in 4 or 8 lb containers.
You can first save $ by keeping your brass. Most handgun cases can safety be reloaded 10-15 times or more. Next, consider using cast lead projectiles instead of jacketed ones. Finally, purchase in volume. Most places discount bullets bought in quantities of 1000, primers by 5000, powder in 4 or 8 lb containers.
Quote from Reloader on December 4, 2007, 7:31 pmAwesome,38 factory loads arent bad on the budget but 357 are.Im palnning on hunting with it so Ill keep my use of 357 to a minimum.
Are all dies universal?I have a Lee setup for 308 but all I need is some 357/38 dies.What else would I need to reload for 357/38.I have a priming tool and case luber and powder dispesnser.
Awesome,38 factory loads arent bad on the budget but 357 are.Im palnning on hunting with it so Ill keep my use of 357 to a minimum.
Are all dies universal?I have a Lee setup for 308 but all I need is some 357/38 dies.What else would I need to reload for 357/38.I have a priming tool and case luber and powder dispesnser.
Quote from Reloader on December 5, 2007, 5:39 pmReloading handguns requires an additional die to flare the case mouth, which eases bullet seating. If you have a Lee single stage, you need at minimum a three die set; resize/deprime in first die, flare case in second die, and either seat/ crimp in third die, or for better results, seat in third die, crimp in fourth die. Dillon dies lack the expander die, as our powder measure performs this function. Most other die brands are three die ssets, combining seating and crimping into one die. If you choose carbide dies, lubing is not necessary. Straightwall cases can get away with this, whereas botteneck cartridges cannot escape lubing.
you will also need a shellholder to hold the case in place while you perform the various operations to it, as 38/357 case head is a different size than your .308 is.
Reloading handguns requires an additional die to flare the case mouth, which eases bullet seating. If you have a Lee single stage, you need at minimum a three die set; resize/deprime in first die, flare case in second die, and either seat/ crimp in third die, or for better results, seat in third die, crimp in fourth die. Dillon dies lack the expander die, as our powder measure performs this function. Most other die brands are three die ssets, combining seating and crimping into one die. If you choose carbide dies, lubing is not necessary. Straightwall cases can get away with this, whereas botteneck cartridges cannot escape lubing.
you will also need a shellholder to hold the case in place while you perform the various operations to it, as 38/357 case head is a different size than your .308 is.
Quote from Reloader on October 23, 2008, 9:19 pmPick up a brand name reloading manual from your local gun store dealer. Preferrably the same name as the loader and/or components you are going to use. I would personally suggest Dillion, But it might just be me!!
Pick up a brand name reloading manual from your local gun store dealer. Preferrably the same name as the loader and/or components you are going to use. I would personally suggest Dillion, But it might just be me!!