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.40 S&W Reloads

Dear Dillon,

Somewhat new to reloading,currently only reloading 9mm. Expecting shipment of .40 S&W dies/set up today. I have read too much conflicting information on the reloading of .40 S&W especially when it comes to shooting the reloads out of a Glock. Lots of info stating you should not even reload .40 S&W due to the unforgiving tolerance in pressures.  I understand that you are not supposed to shoot lead bullets due to the barrel that a Glock has come with in the past. Some say the new barrels are cut differently and it is ok. Either way, I am planning on reloading 165gr JHP and 180gr JHP for my Glock 22 and Beretta 90 two in .40 S&W. Can you give me the skinny on reloading this round, I trust your valued opinion. Also what are good powders for this round? Again thanks in advance for your great product and service. My xl650 is the king!

It is true that you should not use lead bullets in a factory Glock barrel (or any other barrel with polygonal rifling). Beyond that, most of the issues are related to chamber and feed ramp issues. Most of the handguns initially chambered in 40 S&W had feed ramps that were too deep and wide. The reason was to ensure reliable feeding, but the result was that fired cases often bulged at the very bottom, below where a regular size die can reshape the case. MOst current 40 cal handguns have shorter feed ramps now.,resulting in longer case life and easier to load cases. There is a chance that brass fired in the Glock may not reliably chamber in your Beretta(depends on the age of the Glock-most 3rd and more current generations are ok in this regard). The bigger issue is from scrounging range brass, where the source is unknown. If you start with brass of a known source, preferably new and fired in your firearms, you should not enounter problems with your reloads chambering back into your handguns. Use of bullets lighter than 180 grains also lengthens case life. In our experience heavier bullets (200 grain and up) greatly reduces case life, due to the higher pressures.

 Use of slower-burning powders, such as Power Pistol, HS-6, and WSF generally give lower pressures for the same velocity. Fast burning powders have a narrower safety margin.

I have been reloading the 40S&W in a glock model 35 for quite some time now and it is accurate with lead projectiles. They are a coated round and leave no lead in the bbl. at all. The powder is AP70 at 4.4grain with a 180grain round nose projectile, a nice load with good accuracy at 50 yards and excellent at 25 yard. The projectiles are made here in Australia by Hawksbury and known as the Silver Hawkes (do not know what the actual coating is) and are hard cast.
Have read all the posts around that give you a bloody scare but kept in a lower loading all has been OK for me. Bob

hogwash. I purchased the dillion XL650 and did a spreadsheet that showed I break even reloading versus purchasing cheap ammo at about 10,000 rounds. With that in mind I have now reloaded almost 10,000 rounds of 40 s&w and have enjoyed the benefits of better ammo that is tailored to my shooting style through a SIG P229.

I purchased a GRX Redding Case Sizer since range brass shows the dreaded "GLocked Brass" problem that you will learn causes the 40 brass to not fit in the dillion 40 case gauge that makes sure your ammo meets SAMMI specs. This adds a step but is worth it.

Having shot almost 10,000 rounds of my own ammo, I can say I saved about 50% versus factory ammo and had better groups and control. My favorite load is as follows:

COAL 1.130-1.135 (sometimes the first rounds in the XL are 1.130)
Montana Gold 180 CMJ (2500 costs $350)
Wolf/CCI Primer (bought at $18 per 1000 with hazmat)
Hogdgon Titegroup 3.5-3.8 gr (1lbs is about 2000 rounds)

You wont save money if you shoot twice as much but you will shoot better because you shoot twice as much.

Update have purchased two after market BBL's and have no worries about reports of Glock problems (factory BBL. was OK) one is ported (4 slots) and the other a direct copy of Glock. (standard rifling)

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