5.56 Military Brass
Quote from Reloader on March 31, 2010, 1:43 amI am bending and/or breaking decaping pins in brass with military crimps.
I was going to buy the super swage 600 but I belive I will still have to deprim the brass first? How can I avoid going through so many decap pins?
I am bending and/or breaking decaping pins in brass with military crimps.
I was going to buy the super swage 600 but I belive I will still have to deprim the brass first? How can I avoid going through so many decap pins?
Quote from Reloader on March 31, 2010, 12:18 pmDepriming military brass with most reloading presses is a PITA. I wish Dillon made a heavy-duty depriming die but they don't.
There are two alternatives that I see. Order a bunch of depriming pins, should be free, to replace them as they break.
Or better, order cleaned deprimed military brass.
Maybe someone else knows of a magic heavy duty depriming die. I think there is money to be made if someone goes into that business as this is a huge problem with all the AR15's floating around today.
Depriming military brass with most reloading presses is a PITA. I wish Dillon made a heavy-duty depriming die but they don't.
There are two alternatives that I see. Order a bunch of depriming pins, should be free, to replace them as they break.
Or better, order cleaned deprimed military brass.
Maybe someone else knows of a magic heavy duty depriming die. I think there is money to be made if someone goes into that business as this is a huge problem with all the AR15's floating around today.
Quote from Reloader on March 31, 2010, 3:51 pmWhat is the headstamp on the brass that is damaging the pins? The Dillon decap pin is heat-treated and designed to deprime US military boxer primed brass. However, if you get some foreign brass with berdan-primed cases or off-center boxer primed brass, the pin will fold over. We have seen foreign made boxer primed .223 military brass with the flash holes punched off-center.
What is the headstamp on the brass that is damaging the pins? The Dillon decap pin is heat-treated and designed to deprime US military boxer primed brass. However, if you get some foreign brass with berdan-primed cases or off-center boxer primed brass, the pin will fold over. We have seen foreign made boxer primed .223 military brass with the flash holes punched off-center.
Quote from Reloader on March 31, 2010, 7:43 pmI will have to get back to you on the head stamps. I got so fed up with breaking pins that I quit reloading .223s. I bought all the remaining pins Space Coast Bullets had in stock from Dillon and after I broke those three I ordered four more from Dillon and Iam down to two! And that is in less than a month. I figured the Super Swage was my answer but come to find out I still have to deprime the cases before I can use it.
I will have to get back to you on the head stamps. I got so fed up with breaking pins that I quit reloading .223s. I bought all the remaining pins Space Coast Bullets had in stock from Dillon and after I broke those three I ordered four more from Dillon and Iam down to two! And that is in less than a month. I figured the Super Swage was my answer but come to find out I still have to deprime the cases before I can use it.
Quote from Reloader on April 1, 2010, 11:59 amOuch! That hurts.
With all the military .223 and .308 crimped primer brass floating about, because of the AR15's floating around, it would seem that Dillon would have some sort of super-duper punch deprimer/sizer gizmo that you could run the brass through before forcing the poor old XL650 to attempt to do this, breaking primer extractor pins in the process.
If you have a punch or an ice pick, and the inclination, try to pry out one of the old primers. Look inside the primer pocket at see if there is more than one flash hole. If so, you have Berdan primed brass. Take it to the nearest metal recycling scrap yard and sell it to them.
You really do need the swage to take out the primer pocket crimp, but unfortunately you have to get the stupid primer out first. And the dumb primer is fighting against the crimp when you do the primer extraction.
I want a "laser" deprimer! It would instantly melt any primer out of the primer pocket and leave a nice clean pocket. I'm sure Dillon is working on something like this.
Ouch! That hurts.
With all the military .223 and .308 crimped primer brass floating about, because of the AR15's floating around, it would seem that Dillon would have some sort of super-duper punch deprimer/sizer gizmo that you could run the brass through before forcing the poor old XL650 to attempt to do this, breaking primer extractor pins in the process.
If you have a punch or an ice pick, and the inclination, try to pry out one of the old primers. Look inside the primer pocket at see if there is more than one flash hole. If so, you have Berdan primed brass. Take it to the nearest metal recycling scrap yard and sell it to them.
You really do need the swage to take out the primer pocket crimp, but unfortunately you have to get the stupid primer out first. And the dumb primer is fighting against the crimp when you do the primer extraction.
I want a "laser" deprimer! It would instantly melt any primer out of the primer pocket and leave a nice clean pocket. I'm sure Dillon is working on something like this.
Quote from Reloader on April 12, 2010, 2:29 pmMy guess would be Berdan primed brass. I just ripped through 2500 Lake City crimped primer cases and the same decapping pin is in mint condition.
82nd
My guess would be Berdan primed brass. I just ripped through 2500 Lake City crimped primer cases and the same decapping pin is in mint condition.
82nd
Quote from Reloader on May 10, 2013, 2:31 pmI had the same problem and stopped after breaking two decapping pins. The brass was lake city 5.56 and they are boxer primed. I went ahead and ordered the Lee universal primer removal tool and have since decapped 3,000 pieces of brass without a problem, to include the two that broke the dillion decapping pin.
That said, I think that I didn't fully tighten the decapping unit in the FL sizer and the decapping portion had a little bit of play that caused it to offset slightly. I just happened to get the Lee faster than replacement pins from Dillion, so that it what I am using and am extremely pleased with its function. The nice thing about the Lee is that it has a collar that allows the pin to slide up, before breaking, if it encounters too much resistance.
I had the same problem and stopped after breaking two decapping pins. The brass was lake city 5.56 and they are boxer primed. I went ahead and ordered the Lee universal primer removal tool and have since decapped 3,000 pieces of brass without a problem, to include the two that broke the dillion decapping pin.
That said, I think that I didn't fully tighten the decapping unit in the FL sizer and the decapping portion had a little bit of play that caused it to offset slightly. I just happened to get the Lee faster than replacement pins from Dillion, so that it what I am using and am extremely pleased with its function. The nice thing about the Lee is that it has a collar that allows the pin to slide up, before breaking, if it encounters too much resistance.