5.56 workflow and clarification
Quote from Reloader on April 24, 2018, 6:49 amI’ve been looking at some videos of the Dillon 650 with the purpose of loading 5.56/223, trying to learn as much as I can so that I can get a good idea of a workflow and what I'll need before I begin purchasing equipment. Naturally, I will do my due diligence by reading the necessary manuals texts prior to loading.
There was, however, a question I had regarding the resizing/depriming die and contrary information I found in two videos:
https://youtu.be/Nukbk2_9mDk?t=1098
According to this video at 18:18, the following occurs:
Station 1: deprime/resize on the downstroke, prime on the upstroke
Station 2: load powder
Station 3: bullet seating
Station 4: crimp
https://youtu.be/YEdFj2uZst0?t=376
According to this video at 6:16, however, the stations are as follows:
Station 1: deprime/resize
Station 2: primes & loads powder
Station 3: checks powder
Station 4: seats bullet
Station 5: crimp
Is the gentleman in the second video mistaken that the powder loading die also primes the case as well? I was under the impression that the 550 & 650 used the same dies? Also, why is he resizing without trimming? Doesn't resizing usually lengthen the case?
Now an additional question. Ideally, I'd like to make the process as streamlined and as effortless as possible. With a powder checker (which I think is pretty crucial for a beginner like myself), there is no room for the RT-1500 trimmer. So if I assume if I want to use such a trimmer (which I've read cuts cleaningly enough that most don't bother chamferring or deburring afterward), then I'll need an additional Toolhead and sizing die to set up the toolhead as a resizer/decapper & trimming station.
So my workflow would be the following:
1. Tumble/clean brass
2. lube brass
3. Deprime & Resize & Trim using additional toolhead loaded with resizing die & Dillon RT-1500 trimmer
4. Swage using Dillon Super Swage if using military spec cases
5. change toolhead and begin loading. (resizing die should not affect case because it was already sized, correct?)
Any input on this workflow or how this could be made easier would be much appreciated!
I’ve been looking at some videos of the Dillon 650 with the purpose of loading 5.56/223, trying to learn as much as I can so that I can get a good idea of a workflow and what I'll need before I begin purchasing equipment. Naturally, I will do my due diligence by reading the necessary manuals texts prior to loading.
There was, however, a question I had regarding the resizing/depriming die and contrary information I found in two videos:
According to this video at 18:18, the following occurs:
Station 1: deprime/resize on the downstroke, prime on the upstroke
Station 2: load powder
Station 3: bullet seating
Station 4: crimp
According to this video at 6:16, however, the stations are as follows:
Station 1: deprime/resize
Station 2: primes & loads powder
Station 3: checks powder
Station 4: seats bullet
Station 5: crimp
Is the gentleman in the second video mistaken that the powder loading die also primes the case as well? I was under the impression that the 550 & 650 used the same dies? Also, why is he resizing without trimming? Doesn't resizing usually lengthen the case?
Now an additional question. Ideally, I'd like to make the process as streamlined and as effortless as possible. With a powder checker (which I think is pretty crucial for a beginner like myself), there is no room for the RT-1500 trimmer. So if I assume if I want to use such a trimmer (which I've read cuts cleaningly enough that most don't bother chamferring or deburring afterward), then I'll need an additional Toolhead and sizing die to set up the toolhead as a resizer/decapper & trimming station.
So my workflow would be the following:
1. Tumble/clean brass
2. lube brass
3. Deprime & Resize & Trim using additional toolhead loaded with resizing die & Dillon RT-1500 trimmer
4. Swage using Dillon Super Swage if using military spec cases
5. change toolhead and begin loading. (resizing die should not affect case because it was already sized, correct?)
Any input on this workflow or how this could be made easier would be much appreciated!
Quote from Reloader on April 24, 2018, 10:20 amTonewheelz,
The second video is the correct one.
When I load 556 or 300 blackout, I use a short tool head for the trimming. On the 556, I also use the universal decapping die in station one with the trimmer/size die in station 4. If you use the size die at station one, you run the risk of the brass spinning as it is already sized and there is little to hold it in place in the trim die. once all the brass is "processed," I switch tool heads and start loading, leaving no dies in station one. I just started using the 556 sizing die in station one for 300 blackout, as the top of the brass will get correctly sized in station 4 in the trim /size station. This allows me to leave the tool head set up and eliminates the constant readjusting of the die. Plus, I use the die I paid for. I have 2 trimmers, one I bought, and another I was given from a friend who stopped loading 556 as he found there wasn't enough savings on reloading that cartridge.
Tonewheelz,
The second video is the correct one.
When I load 556 or 300 blackout, I use a short tool head for the trimming. On the 556, I also use the universal decapping die in station one with the trimmer/size die in station 4. If you use the size die at station one, you run the risk of the brass spinning as it is already sized and there is little to hold it in place in the trim die. once all the brass is "processed," I switch tool heads and start loading, leaving no dies in station one. I just started using the 556 sizing die in station one for 300 blackout, as the top of the brass will get correctly sized in station 4 in the trim /size station. This allows me to leave the tool head set up and eliminates the constant readjusting of the die. Plus, I use the die I paid for. I have 2 trimmers, one I bought, and another I was given from a friend who stopped loading 556 as he found there wasn't enough savings on reloading that cartridge.
Quote from Reloader on April 29, 2018, 9:58 pmI'll tell you what I do for what it's worth. I have run thousands of rounds the same way and I've never had any issues, but everyone does their own thing, I'm sure there are folks that will say I'm going overboard. I deprime everything with a universal deprime and then everything goes into a steel pin tumbler, I dry it and then it's time to resize and trim, I use a lube die in 1, then size and trim in 3, and then I have a small base x die in 5, I find the small base die to be essential for consistent reliability. Then I swage, and do case prep, debur flash hole, chamfer in and out, and uniform the primer pocket, then I clean and polish the brass to remove the lube and make them look pretty, now I'm ready to reload. 1 is an M die ( I really like the M die it makes seating a cinche), 2 is prime and powder (make sure you don't flare the mouth but you get a full stroke, I use a spring on my powder bar, I think it helps prevents drip), 3 is powder check, 4 is seating (I use a micrometer die because I use a bunch of different bullets and powders moving up and down is way easier), 5 is a factory crimp (if you are using a bolt action not necessary, in my opinion it is a good safety measure for an AR, and I believe it provides more consistent pressure and tightens up my groups. This is what I do, I hope it helps, good luck and good shooting.
I'll tell you what I do for what it's worth. I have run thousands of rounds the same way and I've never had any issues, but everyone does their own thing, I'm sure there are folks that will say I'm going overboard. I deprime everything with a universal deprime and then everything goes into a steel pin tumbler, I dry it and then it's time to resize and trim, I use a lube die in 1, then size and trim in 3, and then I have a small base x die in 5, I find the small base die to be essential for consistent reliability. Then I swage, and do case prep, debur flash hole, chamfer in and out, and uniform the primer pocket, then I clean and polish the brass to remove the lube and make them look pretty, now I'm ready to reload. 1 is an M die ( I really like the M die it makes seating a cinche), 2 is prime and powder (make sure you don't flare the mouth but you get a full stroke, I use a spring on my powder bar, I think it helps prevents drip), 3 is powder check, 4 is seating (I use a micrometer die because I use a bunch of different bullets and powders moving up and down is way easier), 5 is a factory crimp (if you are using a bolt action not necessary, in my opinion it is a good safety measure for an AR, and I believe it provides more consistent pressure and tightens up my groups. This is what I do, I hope it helps, good luck and good shooting.