650 for case prep
Quote from Reloader on June 12, 2011, 8:59 amHaving to process a lot of mil brass. My 650 is going to have to be turned into a case prep staton. For 5.56, 7.62 and 30-06. Deprime and resize, and case trim. Is there a way you guys turn the primer seater into a swager. I Like your swager but it would be nice to resize/deprime, swage and trim in one pull of the handle. Unfortunatly buying a 1050 in not an option. Is that possible?
Gibby
Having to process a lot of mil brass. My 650 is going to have to be turned into a case prep staton. For 5.56, 7.62 and 30-06. Deprime and resize, and case trim. Is there a way you guys turn the primer seater into a swager. I Like your swager but it would be nice to resize/deprime, swage and trim in one pull of the handle. Unfortunatly buying a 1050 in not an option. Is that possible?
Gibby
Quote from Reloader on June 12, 2011, 9:58 pmNot possible - I have personally looked at it for quite a while, made some mods and attempted it with total failure. If you really want to do this, get a 1050 !
Not possible - I have personally looked at it for quite a while, made some mods and attempted it with total failure. If you really want to do this, get a 1050 !
Quote from Reloader on June 13, 2011, 5:12 pmanm2_man is quite correct. The case rim is not stiff enough to withstand the pressure os swaging without seriously deforming, to a point of uselessness. The shellplate isn't strong enough either. The good news is swaging is a one-time process.
anm2_man is quite correct. The case rim is not stiff enough to withstand the pressure os swaging without seriously deforming, to a point of uselessness. The shellplate isn't strong enough either. The good news is swaging is a one-time process.
Quote from Reloader on July 31, 2011, 3:09 pmI am faced with this dilemma as well. Lots of brass that needs prep but not enough cash for a 1050.
I have settled for a compromise. I have a universal de-capping die and Rapid Trim on a separate tool head. All brass is deprimed, sized, and trimmed in a separate operation. From there it goes into the tumbler with stainless steel pins which clean the inside and outside, as well as primer pockets, of the brass.
I then swage and give each piece a visual inspection.
When loading, I use a Lee Collet die in station one to perform expand the case mouth and set the collet so it just makes sure the neck is straight and uniform. This die requires no lube so all my finished rounds are neat, clean, and as shiny as brand new. The mandrel also has the added benefit of knocking down/off any slight burr that might remain from the trimming/tumbling process.
I make up for the lack of a swager by just doing huge quantities. Only have to do them once and then it's a couple of years before I need to re-visit the process.
I am faced with this dilemma as well. Lots of brass that needs prep but not enough cash for a 1050.
I have settled for a compromise. I have a universal de-capping die and Rapid Trim on a separate tool head. All brass is deprimed, sized, and trimmed in a separate operation. From there it goes into the tumbler with stainless steel pins which clean the inside and outside, as well as primer pockets, of the brass.
I then swage and give each piece a visual inspection.
When loading, I use a Lee Collet die in station one to perform expand the case mouth and set the collet so it just makes sure the neck is straight and uniform. This die requires no lube so all my finished rounds are neat, clean, and as shiny as brand new. The mandrel also has the added benefit of knocking down/off any slight burr that might remain from the trimming/tumbling process.
I make up for the lack of a swager by just doing huge quantities. Only have to do them once and then it's a couple of years before I need to re-visit the process.
Quote from Reloader on August 9, 2011, 12:10 pmHello Everyone,
I am totally new to reloading and to Dillon products, but I noticed that everyone failed to mention that he could swage the mil brass with the 650 without having to put out the cash for a 1050! Did anyone forget the Super Swage 600? Yes it is a separate step and not part of the automation of the 650, but it gets the job done and you won't have to mortgage your house to get it! If I am wrong and off base, I'm sorry!
Jeff
Hello Everyone,
I am totally new to reloading and to Dillon products, but I noticed that everyone failed to mention that he could swage the mil brass with the 650 without having to put out the cash for a 1050! Did anyone forget the Super Swage 600? Yes it is a separate step and not part of the automation of the 650, but it gets the job done and you won't have to mortgage your house to get it! If I am wrong and off base, I'm sorry!
Jeff
Quote from Reloader on August 9, 2011, 12:27 pmHello Everyone,
I am totally new to reloading and to Dillon products, but I noticed that everyone failed to mention that he could swage the mil brass with the 650 without having to put out the cash for a 1050! Did anyone forget the Super Swage 600? Yes it is a separate step and not part of the automation of the 650, but it gets the job done and you won't have to mortgage your house to get it! If I am wrong and off base, I'm sorry!
Jeff
Hello Everyone,
I am totally new to reloading and to Dillon products, but I noticed that everyone failed to mention that he could swage the mil brass with the 650 without having to put out the cash for a 1050! Did anyone forget the Super Swage 600? Yes it is a separate step and not part of the automation of the 650, but it gets the job done and you won't have to mortgage your house to get it! If I am wrong and off base, I'm sorry!
Jeff
Quote from Reloader on August 9, 2011, 3:34 pmNot at all possible. The rim of the case is not strong enough to withstand the upward pressure needed to remove the crimp. On the Super Swage and on the 1050 machines, there is a rod that supports the case from the inside to prevent damage to the case rim.
Not at all possible. The rim of the case is not strong enough to withstand the upward pressure needed to remove the crimp. On the Super Swage and on the 1050 machines, there is a rod that supports the case from the inside to prevent damage to the case rim.