Bulge at bullet base causes feed failure
Quote from Reloader on March 31, 2013, 9:16 pmLoading 9mm 124gr JHP, on some of the completed rounds there is a bulge on the side at the base of the bullet causing it to fail to go into battery.
Steps taken;
Pulled down completed round that won't feed
Sized brass and checked with case gauge...test ok
Reseated different bullet...same issue
Place first bullet in different case...test ok
Checked bullet for proper diameter...test ok
Took failed case and seated 9mm LRN...test ok
Verified with a micrometer both bullets .356 (softer lead conforms easier)The non conforming round happens about 5-10% of the time.
Any thoughts on this? Is there a way to do a second resize after loading for the out of spec rounds?My analysis on this is that the case is thicker on one side causing the thinner side to bulge but it seems that there should be a way to correct the issue.
Loading 9mm 124gr JHP, on some of the completed rounds there is a bulge on the side at the base of the bullet causing it to fail to go into battery.
Steps taken;
Pulled down completed round that won't feed
Sized brass and checked with case gauge...test ok
Reseated different bullet...same issue
Place first bullet in different case...test ok
Checked bullet for proper diameter...test ok
Took failed case and seated 9mm LRN...test ok
Verified with a micrometer both bullets .356 (softer lead conforms easier)
The non conforming round happens about 5-10% of the time.
Any thoughts on this? Is there a way to do a second resize after loading for the out of spec rounds?
My analysis on this is that the case is thicker on one side causing the thinner side to bulge but it seems that there should be a way to correct the issue.
Quote from Reloader on April 6, 2013, 8:33 pmIt appears the solution for this is to use Lee dies. I purchased a Lee Factory Crimp Die which does a post seating re-size and crimp.
I loaded 250 rounds and had about 25 out of spec rounds that wouldn't fully seat in the case gauge using the Dillon crimping die.
I installed the Lee FCD an re-crimped/sized the 25 and every round was perfect! I then proceeded to to 100 more rounds and every one of them passed the gauge check with flying colors.
After spending $3k on Dillon equipment I would think that a company with "Precision" in the name would be a little more...well precise.
Don't get me wrong, I still love my 650 and the folks at Dillon, I'm just saying that my expectations were a little higher.
It appears the solution for this is to use Lee dies. I purchased a Lee Factory Crimp Die which does a post seating re-size and crimp.
I loaded 250 rounds and had about 25 out of spec rounds that wouldn't fully seat in the case gauge using the Dillon crimping die.
I installed the Lee FCD an re-crimped/sized the 25 and every round was perfect! I then proceeded to to 100 more rounds and every one of them passed the gauge check with flying colors.
After spending $3k on Dillon equipment I would think that a company with "Precision" in the name would be a little more...well precise.
Don't get me wrong, I still love my 650 and the folks at Dillon, I'm just saying that my expectations were a little higher.
Quote from Reloader on April 8, 2013, 6:00 amFrom your photo, at the mouth of the cartridge I see a shiny area. I had a similar problem, it seemed that all processes were correct but there was a small amount of damage to the mouth of the cartridges. I found the problem was caused by the powder funnel not lining up perfect with the cartridge. It would sometimes catch on the edge of the cartridge and then slip into the cartridge. Before it slipped in, it slightly distorted the edge of the cartridge. When I went to seat the bullet, I noticed the mouth of the case was slightly wrinkled. Since semi-autos use the mouth of the cartridge to set at the proper depth in the chamber, unlike a rimmed cartridge, they would not chamber properly. If I forced them, they might, but I realized I had a problem. At first I thought I had bad brass.
I started watching the powder stage, perfect most of the time, but once in a while I'd notice the funnel catching on the edge, then jumped in, damage was done but not obvious.
I verified I had an alignment problem using Dillon's free alignment gage. In addition, I took the hardened powder funnel to a tool post grinder on a lathe and took a tiny amount off, so it slipped into the cartridge better, problem solved. I don't recommend that solution but it worked for me.
Check the powder stage.
Jim H.
From your photo, at the mouth of the cartridge I see a shiny area. I had a similar problem, it seemed that all processes were correct but there was a small amount of damage to the mouth of the cartridges. I found the problem was caused by the powder funnel not lining up perfect with the cartridge. It would sometimes catch on the edge of the cartridge and then slip into the cartridge. Before it slipped in, it slightly distorted the edge of the cartridge. When I went to seat the bullet, I noticed the mouth of the case was slightly wrinkled. Since semi-autos use the mouth of the cartridge to set at the proper depth in the chamber, unlike a rimmed cartridge, they would not chamber properly. If I forced them, they might, but I realized I had a problem. At first I thought I had bad brass.
I started watching the powder stage, perfect most of the time, but once in a while I'd notice the funnel catching on the edge, then jumped in, damage was done but not obvious.
I verified I had an alignment problem using Dillon's free alignment gage. In addition, I took the hardened powder funnel to a tool post grinder on a lathe and took a tiny amount off, so it slipped into the cartridge better, problem solved. I don't recommend that solution but it worked for me.
Check the powder stage.
Jim H.
Quote from Reloader on July 30, 2013, 6:27 amHopefully someone has already answered your question, but if not here are my 2 cents.
The bulge you are seeing is commonly referred to as a Glock bulge. It is caused when a case is initially fired in a pistol without fully supported chamber. The fix is simple, but will cost you about $25.00.
I use a Lee Precision brand factory crimp die to fix this on my ammo.(Dillon does not make a comparable die)
These dies can be used in two ways.
First, you can simply replace the Dillon crimp die in your tool head with the Lee FCD. It will then re-size the entire length of the outer diameter of the case, (eliminating the bulge), as it crimps the bullet. Your re-sizing die does not do this because the proper die adjustment for a tapered case such as 9MM is for the die not to touch the shell plate.
The second way to use the FCD is to spend even a little more money and get the Lee bulge buster kit. This process does require using a single stage press though. You disassemble to the factory crimp die, removing the crimping components. What you are left with is a hollow die that is open on both ends. You then install the factory crimp die in the single stage press. Once the die is installed you attach the small plastic jar provided in the kit to it. Using the special shell holder provided, (which is designed not hold the shell), you push the empty brass or loaded rounds completely through the die body. This re-sizes the outer diameter of the die, thus fixing the bulge, and the brass or bullets are collected in the jar above the die.
In the past I have had to bulge-bust loaded rounds. I replaced my crimp die with the lee FCD die, then removed the the brass button from station four. I hand fed the loaded rounds into the shell holder on my 650. The seat die does not interfere with the loaded round, but on the second pull the round is bulge busted and re-crimped by the Lee Die, then ejected on the next stroke.
Hope this helps.
Kenny
931-637-5015
Hopefully someone has already answered your question, but if not here are my 2 cents.
The bulge you are seeing is commonly referred to as a Glock bulge. It is caused when a case is initially fired in a pistol without fully supported chamber. The fix is simple, but will cost you about $25.00.
I use a Lee Precision brand factory crimp die to fix this on my ammo.(Dillon does not make a comparable die)
These dies can be used in two ways.
First, you can simply replace the Dillon crimp die in your tool head with the Lee FCD. It will then re-size the entire length of the outer diameter of the case, (eliminating the bulge), as it crimps the bullet. Your re-sizing die does not do this because the proper die adjustment for a tapered case such as 9MM is for the die not to touch the shell plate.
The second way to use the FCD is to spend even a little more money and get the Lee bulge buster kit. This process does require using a single stage press though. You disassemble to the factory crimp die, removing the crimping components. What you are left with is a hollow die that is open on both ends. You then install the factory crimp die in the single stage press. Once the die is installed you attach the small plastic jar provided in the kit to it. Using the special shell holder provided, (which is designed not hold the shell), you push the empty brass or loaded rounds completely through the die body. This re-sizes the outer diameter of the die, thus fixing the bulge, and the brass or bullets are collected in the jar above the die.
In the past I have had to bulge-bust loaded rounds. I replaced my crimp die with the lee FCD die, then removed the the brass button from station four. I hand fed the loaded rounds into the shell holder on my 650. The seat die does not interfere with the loaded round, but on the second pull the round is bulge busted and re-crimped by the Lee Die, then ejected on the next stroke.
Hope this helps.
Kenny
931-637-5015