Creating mild loads for .460 revolver
Quote from EGGS on September 23, 2025, 11:39 pmIt's time I start shooting my .460 7 1/2" S&W using more sanity, instead of more powder. Would like suggestions. I used to make my own bullets in .38 caliber, but sold all that equipment, and do not intend to get back into that end of it again, but would consider using lead, OR jacketed bullets if the price is right. Really would just like to take gun out to the range and bust stuff, like pumpkins, etc.
I have a deer load already worked up using 265 gr. Swift "A" Frame HP bullets. I read different stories about throat erosion, etc. on this gun if using lighter bullets while trying to get max. velocity. I understand why not to use .451 Hornaday jacketed 200gr. bullets at max velocity, but if I stick to .452 dia. bullets, even if lighter than say 240 gr. can I get away without the harm to the forcing cone, if I just use the beginning load data?
If using cast bullets, what is a good wt. and brand/style. What works for you, my .460 shooting/reloading brothers?
It's time I start shooting my .460 7 1/2" S&W using more sanity, instead of more powder. Would like suggestions. I used to make my own bullets in .38 caliber, but sold all that equipment, and do not intend to get back into that end of it again, but would consider using lead, OR jacketed bullets if the price is right. Really would just like to take gun out to the range and bust stuff, like pumpkins, etc.
I have a deer load already worked up using 265 gr. Swift "A" Frame HP bullets. I read different stories about throat erosion, etc. on this gun if using lighter bullets while trying to get max. velocity. I understand why not to use .451 Hornaday jacketed 200gr. bullets at max velocity, but if I stick to .452 dia. bullets, even if lighter than say 240 gr. can I get away without the harm to the forcing cone, if I just use the beginning load data?
If using cast bullets, what is a good wt. and brand/style. What works for you, my .460 shooting/reloading brothers?
Quote from The Human Manual on September 29, 2025, 9:56 pmNo problem using a cast or polymer coated bullet in .452" diameter in your .460 S&W. You won't damage the forcing cone doing so. With a polymer coated bullet, keep velocities under 1200 fps.
Here is a good choice for range and fun work: Blue Bullets | 45 (.452) 250 RNFP 600PCS
No problem using a cast or polymer coated bullet in .452" diameter in your .460 S&W. You won't damage the forcing cone doing so. With a polymer coated bullet, keep velocities under 1200 fps.
Here is a good choice for range and fun work: Blue Bullets | 45 (.452) 250 RNFP 600PCS
Quote from EGGS on October 1, 2025, 10:27 pmThank you Human Manual.
Maybe you can answer another question. Today at the range with my S & W 460 I had 8 Fail To Fire events using CCI primers. The SA trigger pull as measured by a digital scale is 4lb.10 oz. Each time I tried to fire again, and they went off. The mark left on the primer was just like a little dimple, but when they finally went off, it was as normal as all the others.
Could it be that CCI primers are too hard? What would you consider using, if not CCI?
Thank you Human Manual.
Maybe you can answer another question. Today at the range with my S & W 460 I had 8 Fail To Fire events using CCI primers. The SA trigger pull as measured by a digital scale is 4lb.10 oz. Each time I tried to fire again, and they went off. The mark left on the primer was just like a little dimple, but when they finally went off, it was as normal as all the others.
Could it be that CCI primers are too hard? What would you consider using, if not CCI?
Quote from The Human Manual on October 1, 2025, 10:31 pmIt sounds more like your primers aren't fully seated. In your case, the first strike finishes seating the primer, the second strike ignites it. Older CCI primers, from the 1990s, were harder to seat. In the early 2000s CCI re-engineered their primers, and current production should seat and ignite just fine. Seat primers at least .002" below flush, ideally .005-.006".
It sounds more like your primers aren't fully seated. In your case, the first strike finishes seating the primer, the second strike ignites it. Older CCI primers, from the 1990s, were harder to seat. In the early 2000s CCI re-engineered their primers, and current production should seat and ignite just fine. Seat primers at least .002" below flush, ideally .005-.006".
Quote from EGGS on October 1, 2025, 11:30 pmSound advice. Will check this out. I have a way of checking primer depth, and will begin to do so. Answers like this are the reason I am a member. Thank you, once again. Really appreciate your experience.
Sound advice. Will check this out. I have a way of checking primer depth, and will begin to do so. Answers like this are the reason I am a member. Thank you, once again. Really appreciate your experience.