Dillon 650 powder variance from case to case
Quote from Reloader on April 12, 2013, 5:28 amSet up my Dillon 650 about 2 weeks ago. adjusted everything, loaded about 25 took them to the range and shot fine.
Tonight I wanted to lower the powder charge a hair and see if my 1911 still functioned with a little less recoil.
Powder variance as follows
45ACP ..... WST Powder..... Aiming for 4.6-4.7 grs
1. 4.7
2. 4.7
3. 4.2
4. 4.5
5. 4.6
6. 4.6
7. 4.7
8. 4.4
9. 4.7
10. 4.2
Seems like quite the variance....maybe its because im used to handloading rifle rounds one at a time?
This variance normal? Tips / Tricks?
Set up my Dillon 650 about 2 weeks ago. adjusted everything, loaded about 25 took them to the range and shot fine.
Tonight I wanted to lower the powder charge a hair and see if my 1911 still functioned with a little less recoil.
Powder variance as follows
45ACP ..... WST Powder..... Aiming for 4.6-4.7 grs
1. 4.7
2. 4.7
3. 4.2
4. 4.5
5. 4.6
6. 4.6
7. 4.7
8. 4.4
9. 4.7
10. 4.2
Seems like quite the variance....maybe its because im used to handloading rifle rounds one at a time?
This variance normal? Tips / Tricks?
Quote from Reloader on April 12, 2013, 2:54 pmThis should meter within +/- .1 grain. Be sure that the hopper is at least 3/4 full when you start, throw 10 charges and dump them back to settle the powder under the hopper. Be sure the powder bar goes full travel well before the handle bottoms out. The case mouth should be flared at least .010" larger than a sized, unflared case. Be sure the blue wing nut at the bottom of the return rod is tight enough. When you push forward on the handle as if seating a primer, the coil spring above the blue wing nut should be partially compressed.
This should meter within +/- .1 grain. Be sure that the hopper is at least 3/4 full when you start, throw 10 charges and dump them back to settle the powder under the hopper. Be sure the powder bar goes full travel well before the handle bottoms out. The case mouth should be flared at least .010" larger than a sized, unflared case. Be sure the blue wing nut at the bottom of the return rod is tight enough. When you push forward on the handle as if seating a primer, the coil spring above the blue wing nut should be partially compressed.
Quote from Reloader on April 12, 2013, 4:01 pmThanks for getting back to me this morning. I know the hopper is over 3/4 full, ill look at spring and dump 10 before measuring a new string. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for getting back to me this morning. I know the hopper is over 3/4 full, ill look at spring and dump 10 before measuring a new string. Thanks for the help!
Quote from Reloader on April 12, 2013, 4:38 pmThanks for getting back to me this morning. I know the hopper is over 3/4 full, ill look at spring and dump 10 before measuring a new string. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for getting back to me this morning. I know the hopper is over 3/4 full, ill look at spring and dump 10 before measuring a new string. Thanks for the help!
Quote from Reloader on April 13, 2013, 2:41 pmSigh. I typed up a wonderful reply but hit the forum limit at 4k characters and the comment was tossed.
I wont retype all I suggested.
Executive summary. Polish the hell out of all inside metal
components that powder can hit and any components inside
that drop that cause any roughness in operation.use craytex tips. If one uses dremel be careful go slow. Craytex
is very forgiving though. One can use silicon based as well.I had a lot more to offer but that is nutshell.
I suggest going to Brian Enos forums as a lot of us Dillon
abusers, er users, hang out there. More than here I think
because forum software there is more like what one is used to.
Better chance of getting a wider range of help and tips!
I stop by here on occasion .
Sigh. I typed up a wonderful reply but hit the forum limit at 4k characters and the comment was tossed.
I wont retype all I suggested.
Executive summary. Polish the hell out of all inside metal
components that powder can hit and any components inside
that drop that cause any roughness in operation.
use craytex tips. If one uses dremel be careful go slow. Craytex
is very forgiving though. One can use silicon based as well.
I had a lot more to offer but that is nutshell.
I suggest going to Brian Enos forums as a lot of us Dillon
abusers, er users, hang out there. More than here I think
because forum software there is more like what one is used to.
Better chance of getting a wider range of help and tips!
I stop by here on occasion .
Quote from Reloader on April 15, 2013, 5:16 amDillon,
I have tried everything you recommended.
powder hopper is over 3/4 full, dumped 10 to settle powder, rotated blue wing nut 2 full turns. heres my numbers from tonight.
4.3
4.5
4.3
4.4
4.4
4.3
4.2
4.5
4.6
4.7
4.4
4.7
4.5
4.3
I swear im not making this up, iv never seen powder variance like this. any more tips? im going to turn blue wing nut another 2 revolutions tomrrow night (the way its sitting right now its definitly compresses the spring , i dont know if two more revolutions will help or not. case mouth is flared out good and easily accepts bullets. im lost.......
Dillon,
I have tried everything you recommended.
powder hopper is over 3/4 full, dumped 10 to settle powder, rotated blue wing nut 2 full turns. heres my numbers from tonight.
4.3
4.5
4.3
4.4
4.4
4.3
4.2
4.5
4.6
4.7
4.4
4.7
4.5
4.3
I swear im not making this up, iv never seen powder variance like this. any more tips? im going to turn blue wing nut another 2 revolutions tomrrow night (the way its sitting right now its definitly compresses the spring , i dont know if two more revolutions will help or not. case mouth is flared out good and easily accepts bullets. im lost.......
Quote from Reloader on May 7, 2013, 5:32 pmI would only tighten the blue wing nut so that the powder charge bar returns to the start position fully. Extra tightening on that will only risk a broken part. I unfortunately have noticed a slight variance in powder charge with ball and cylindrical powder, but maybe 2 tenths of a grain. I would recommend taking the powder charge bar off of the machine and cleaning it. I usually use rubbing alcohol on the metalic parts, and then wipe with a rag when done. Hopefully this will work for you. I have had really good luck lately with 700X powder on the 45 ACP with a powder variance of 1 tenth of a grain. Good Luck!
I would only tighten the blue wing nut so that the powder charge bar returns to the start position fully. Extra tightening on that will only risk a broken part. I unfortunately have noticed a slight variance in powder charge with ball and cylindrical powder, but maybe 2 tenths of a grain. I would recommend taking the powder charge bar off of the machine and cleaning it. I usually use rubbing alcohol on the metalic parts, and then wipe with a rag when done. Hopefully this will work for you. I have had really good luck lately with 700X powder on the 45 ACP with a powder variance of 1 tenth of a grain. Good Luck!