"Failsafe" Powder Rod
Quote from Reloader on September 2, 2011, 3:32 amI purchased a RL550B reloader close to a year ago and for the most part, love it. Didn't read the "fine print" so I didn't realise that it was manual advance until I got it home and unboxed it. Had I realised it before I bought it, I may gave gotten the 650, but *shrug*, it's still tons faster than loading single stage.
Anyway, pretty much the only thing I hate about the machine is the "Failsafe" powder rod. It makes the machine "clunky", it's in the way when I'm trying to adjust the powder charge after a caliber change, and caliber changes are a royal pain. Is there any way I could order the parts to remove the "Failsafe" bar and make it operate like the "Old School" powder measures? I fail to see how the rod can possibly be better than the spring the older units had, how the spring could be worse, or how it could fail any way but safe. If the spring breaks and the powder bar doesn't return, it's not like it's going to free-flow powder, and it's not like you're not going to know the spring is broken and stop.
I believe I read here somewhere that the rod is supposed to shake the powder and help give consistent charges, but I haven't noticed that to be the case. I've seen charges vary by .2gr or so, with the odd one that's as much as .5 low. All loading with Blue Dot.
My grandather has three Square Deals (9mm, .38/.357 & .45), and none of them have the failsafe rod but have worked flawlessly for as long as he's had them. The oldest two are probably real close to 20 years old and the newest is still at least 10 years old.
I purchased a RL550B reloader close to a year ago and for the most part, love it. Didn't read the "fine print" so I didn't realise that it was manual advance until I got it home and unboxed it. Had I realised it before I bought it, I may gave gotten the 650, but *shrug*, it's still tons faster than loading single stage.
Anyway, pretty much the only thing I hate about the machine is the "Failsafe" powder rod. It makes the machine "clunky", it's in the way when I'm trying to adjust the powder charge after a caliber change, and caliber changes are a royal pain. Is there any way I could order the parts to remove the "Failsafe" bar and make it operate like the "Old School" powder measures? I fail to see how the rod can possibly be better than the spring the older units had, how the spring could be worse, or how it could fail any way but safe. If the spring breaks and the powder bar doesn't return, it's not like it's going to free-flow powder, and it's not like you're not going to know the spring is broken and stop.
I believe I read here somewhere that the rod is supposed to shake the powder and help give consistent charges, but I haven't noticed that to be the case. I've seen charges vary by .2gr or so, with the odd one that's as much as .5 low. All loading with Blue Dot.
My grandather has three Square Deals (9mm, .38/.357 & .45), and none of them have the failsafe rod but have worked flawlessly for as long as he's had them. The oldest two are probably real close to 20 years old and the newest is still at least 10 years old.
Quote from Reloader on September 2, 2011, 2:36 pmNo "old style" powder measure parts are available. Tighten the blue wing nut more to reduce the amount of lock-link engagement, reducing the "clunk". Be sure you flare cases at least .010" to ensure a complete powder bar travel. Blue Dot is a coarse flake powder, start with the hopper at least 2/3 full, throw 10-15 charges before you begin weighing to ensure a consistant powder drop. +/- .2 grain is what I would expect from Blue Dot.
No "old style" powder measure parts are available. Tighten the blue wing nut more to reduce the amount of lock-link engagement, reducing the "clunk". Be sure you flare cases at least .010" to ensure a complete powder bar travel. Blue Dot is a coarse flake powder, start with the hopper at least 2/3 full, throw 10-15 charges before you begin weighing to ensure a consistant powder drop. +/- .2 grain is what I would expect from Blue Dot.
Quote from Reloader on November 1, 2011, 4:27 pmThat "Clunk" does have a purpose which is basically one of safety. The rod allows the "Bell-Crank" unit to tap the measure's housing. This is to insure powder cavity to empty completely if there, by chance, is any of that one charge "sticking" within it.
Personally find the rod is best adjusted with the ball or roller handle pushed all the way forward {as if priming a case}.
Tighten the adjuster so it takes up all the slack in the sys., then put enough tension on its spring so it begins to compress it positively, again, with the Ball handle all way forward. Should insure that the powder bar is at its max mechanical stop {all the way to the left}.Both the 550's own, run quite smoothly this way.
FWIW, advancing the shell-plate with the thumb when placing the bullet in the case at Station #3 becomes one fluid motion once it becomes second nature.The 650 is auto-index only, if there is a priming sys jam or something needing correction on the shell-plate, one is forced to start removing pins. With the 550 it's a simple matter of just rotating it back. The 650's big advantage is it's case-feeder, own opinion.
That "Clunk" does have a purpose which is basically one of safety. The rod allows the "Bell-Crank" unit to tap the measure's housing. This is to insure powder cavity to empty completely if there, by chance, is any of that one charge "sticking" within it.
Personally find the rod is best adjusted with the ball or roller handle pushed all the way forward {as if priming a case}.
Tighten the adjuster so it takes up all the slack in the sys., then put enough tension on its spring so it begins to compress it positively, again, with the Ball handle all way forward. Should insure that the powder bar is at its max mechanical stop {all the way to the left}.
Both the 550's own, run quite smoothly this way.
FWIW, advancing the shell-plate with the thumb when placing the bullet in the case at Station #3 becomes one fluid motion once it becomes second nature.
The 650 is auto-index only, if there is a priming sys jam or something needing correction on the shell-plate, one is forced to start removing pins. With the 550 it's a simple matter of just rotating it back. The 650's big advantage is it's case-feeder, own opinion.
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