Loading Manuals
Quote from Reloader on October 13, 2010, 3:39 pmI just recently purchased a Dillion 550b and as I am new to reloading I was curious as to the differences between loading manuals on the amount of power required for a specific bullet,for instance in one manual for a 9mm 115gr (.355) jhp using Unique 5.1 min and 6.1 max and then for another it calls for 5.0grs min to 6.3max.I am using something in between the two at the low end now.If this is not the proper place to ask this sort of questions then I apologize and please ignore.
I just recently purchased a Dillion 550b and as I am new to reloading I was curious as to the differences between loading manuals on the amount of power required for a specific bullet,for instance in one manual for a 9mm 115gr (.355) jhp using Unique 5.1 min and 6.1 max and then for another it calls for 5.0grs min to 6.3max.I am using something in between the two at the low end now.If this is not the proper place to ask this sort of questions then I apologize and please ignore.
Quote from Reloader on October 18, 2010, 3:21 pmThe differences in data from one manual to another are usually due to differences in choices of brass, bullet and primer. When loading data is developed, pressure is measured for usually twenty shots at that load combination. If any one of the twenty shots goes over pressure, then the load is backed down. There is enough difference between volume of different brands of brass, the jacket hardness between brands of bullets, to easily account for this much variation.
Typically the minimum load in a semi-auto pistol will not generate enough energy to reliable cycle the firearm. It is suggested to start by loading five rounds at the lowest load, and go up in .2 or .3 grain increments, first to find out how much powder is necessary to reliably cycle the firearm and lock the slide back when the magazine is empty;once it cycles reliably look for group size. The pressure signs described in manuals and online occur at pressures far above the safe level. But there can be other causes that have results visually identical to excess pressure. Pay attention the the component combination the data was developed with, start low and work the load up to reliable function and best group, and you'll be fine.
The differences in data from one manual to another are usually due to differences in choices of brass, bullet and primer. When loading data is developed, pressure is measured for usually twenty shots at that load combination. If any one of the twenty shots goes over pressure, then the load is backed down. There is enough difference between volume of different brands of brass, the jacket hardness between brands of bullets, to easily account for this much variation.
Typically the minimum load in a semi-auto pistol will not generate enough energy to reliable cycle the firearm. It is suggested to start by loading five rounds at the lowest load, and go up in .2 or .3 grain increments, first to find out how much powder is necessary to reliably cycle the firearm and lock the slide back when the magazine is empty;once it cycles reliably look for group size. The pressure signs described in manuals and online occur at pressures far above the safe level. But there can be other causes that have results visually identical to excess pressure. Pay attention the the component combination the data was developed with, start low and work the load up to reliable function and best group, and you'll be fine.
Quote from Reloader on December 20, 2010, 1:54 amSince lawyers are involved in so many cases, the companies who publish reloading books are all running on the defensive. I have a manual that was published in the early 1960's and the loads in that one are all above what is in the manuals published these days.
I shoot 9mm and reload 115 grain slugs, over 5.2 grains of Unique and a CCI small pistol primer. Works great in my S&W M&P9, M39, and M908. It may not be the hottest load out there, but, it certainly gets the job done.
I shot my reloads out of a buddy's Hi-Power and it really liked them as well.
Advice is free and you get what you pay for: my advice is for practice loads, reload the minimum charge that will reliably cycle your piece. for service loads, I set the die to .2 grains below the maximum that is in the load recommended by the powder manufacturer, and use that. My defensive/service loads are pee-bringers. I only chamber them for my carry loads. For practice at ranges out to maybe 25 feet, practice loads (at 5.2 grains) are just fine.
Hope this helps!
Since lawyers are involved in so many cases, the companies who publish reloading books are all running on the defensive. I have a manual that was published in the early 1960's and the loads in that one are all above what is in the manuals published these days.
I shoot 9mm and reload 115 grain slugs, over 5.2 grains of Unique and a CCI small pistol primer. Works great in my S&W M&P9, M39, and M908. It may not be the hottest load out there, but, it certainly gets the job done.
I shot my reloads out of a buddy's Hi-Power and it really liked them as well.
Advice is free and you get what you pay for: my advice is for practice loads, reload the minimum charge that will reliably cycle your piece. for service loads, I set the die to .2 grains below the maximum that is in the load recommended by the powder manufacturer, and use that. My defensive/service loads are pee-bringers. I only chamber them for my carry loads. For practice at ranges out to maybe 25 feet, practice loads (at 5.2 grains) are just fine.
Hope this helps!
Quote from Reloader on January 25, 2011, 1:33 amConcur with both responses to your question and I use a similar method as the one described by dillon.
Fourteen years ago I endeavored to find my perfect 9mm load and it took a lot of effort. My goal was the most accurate, cleanest burning, light target load possible. I used 125 gr lrn hard cast bullets, four different powders, and two guns. I chrongraphed all my shots. Powders were 231, Bullseye, Universal Clays, and Unique. I compiled loading data from four reloading manuals and the powder manufacturers' pamphlets, and started at 10 percent below the lowest load. Both the Sig 226 and Ruger P89 cycled at the beginning loads and continued throughout.
I devised a detailed load data sheet that I used for each load , then loaded ten rounds for each pistol for each powder in 1/10 grain increments. Adjusting and measuring the powder with Dillon equipment wasn't bad, but it took time. Using this method, I shot over 100 targets. First I would shoot five rounds through the chronograph and manually write down the bullet speeds and average them out. Then I would shoot the other five at targets I made on my computer for groupings, then repeat this for the second pistol. This took a lot of effort and time. I was lucky to shoot four to six loads per session.
The two loads I liked best were 3.5 gr of Bullseye (975 fps) and 3.8 gr of Win 231(990 fps), although there were acceptable loads with all powders. Now I have some Titegroup I would like to try and maybe a V V also. I have used similar methods for other calibers and I enjoy the whole process - tedious but relaxing. If I were to do it over I would go up in either 2/10 or 3/10 increments instead of 1/10 and then zero it in when I got close. To me the project was a load of fun.
Concur with both responses to your question and I use a similar method as the one described by dillon.
Fourteen years ago I endeavored to find my perfect 9mm load and it took a lot of effort. My goal was the most accurate, cleanest burning, light target load possible. I used 125 gr lrn hard cast bullets, four different powders, and two guns. I chrongraphed all my shots. Powders were 231, Bullseye, Universal Clays, and Unique. I compiled loading data from four reloading manuals and the powder manufacturers' pamphlets, and started at 10 percent below the lowest load. Both the Sig 226 and Ruger P89 cycled at the beginning loads and continued throughout.
I devised a detailed load data sheet that I used for each load , then loaded ten rounds for each pistol for each powder in 1/10 grain increments. Adjusting and measuring the powder with Dillon equipment wasn't bad, but it took time. Using this method, I shot over 100 targets. First I would shoot five rounds through the chronograph and manually write down the bullet speeds and average them out. Then I would shoot the other five at targets I made on my computer for groupings, then repeat this for the second pistol. This took a lot of effort and time. I was lucky to shoot four to six loads per session.
The two loads I liked best were 3.5 gr of Bullseye (975 fps) and 3.8 gr of Win 231(990 fps), although there were acceptable loads with all powders. Now I have some Titegroup I would like to try and maybe a V V also. I have used similar methods for other calibers and I enjoy the whole process - tedious but relaxing. If I were to do it over I would go up in either 2/10 or 3/10 increments instead of 1/10 and then zero it in when I got close. To me the project was a load of fun.