New XL650 Q&A
Quote from Reloader on April 13, 2015, 3:09 pmRight off the top: thanks all for the helpful advice! This forum (and responders) adheres to Diillon's "NO BS" policy/warrantee. Best advice ever! Thank you for spending the time...
So here's an update:
.223: haven't checked the primer issue with my 5.56 cases yet-I received my caliber change kit and have been experimenting with 9mm. The .223 (about 50 or so) I did load all worked perfectly at the range! No squibs, ejector issues, or misfires, etc-pretty accurate too! After I load out a decent amount for my S&W 9mm M&P (500 or so) I will jump back on the .223.
9mm: I had already ordered the caliber cnversion kit from .223 to 9mm when I read the advice to go that route from Dillon Tech Help. Severly OCD affected, I was pleasantly surprised that the change-out went easily. As mentioned, the location of change-over parts was obvious and had no issues. Loaded my first 20 9mm rounds and they went well. Primers seated smoothly with minimal pressure-now I have something to compare to when I return to .223! My powder loads were light-did not eject from the M&P. I loaded Accurate #2 at 4.2-4.4gns. shooting 115gn Extreme FMJ bullet. Went back to the drawing board and loaded the next batch at 4.4-4.6gns. They worked better (ejected fine) but still felt light to store-bought reloads. So third time's the charm and I loaded out 30 rounds at max load (Lee manual) 4.6gns and waiting to test.
My question: could my crimp be affecting performance? I re-read the Dillon manual and re-adjusted my crimp die though it ended up about the same. When I break down a cartridge, I see a very slight indent ring around the fmj (no cannelure). Testing crimped edges with my fingers with a factory round felt similar. Caliper measurement at case crimp was slightly less than spec'd in Lee's diagram (sorry, don't have the numbers with me). I think the crimp is too light because when breaking down with kinetic hammer tool it only takes one or two strikes. Also, two rounds out of 30 had loose bullets which dropped slightly into the case; probably due to running them through the resizer several times and creating too much bell? Or too light crimp? Manual says that may be due to too TIGHT crimp. How do you set the crimp amount?
Love the XL650 compared to my old presses. I was able to set up the press on my existing bench but cannot use a case collator due to height restrictions. The Dillon web dimensions include the piston drop down below the bench edge. I think from base to top of clear case feed tube/black collator support is approx 32" so it fits nicely. Need enough room to remove/replace the primer wand though.
Thanks all, happy reloading!
Right off the top: thanks all for the helpful advice! This forum (and responders) adheres to Diillon's "NO BS" policy/warrantee. Best advice ever! Thank you for spending the time...
So here's an update:
.223: haven't checked the primer issue with my 5.56 cases yet-I received my caliber change kit and have been experimenting with 9mm. The .223 (about 50 or so) I did load all worked perfectly at the range! No squibs, ejector issues, or misfires, etc-pretty accurate too! After I load out a decent amount for my S&W 9mm M&P (500 or so) I will jump back on the .223.
9mm: I had already ordered the caliber cnversion kit from .223 to 9mm when I read the advice to go that route from Dillon Tech Help. Severly OCD affected, I was pleasantly surprised that the change-out went easily. As mentioned, the location of change-over parts was obvious and had no issues. Loaded my first 20 9mm rounds and they went well. Primers seated smoothly with minimal pressure-now I have something to compare to when I return to .223! My powder loads were light-did not eject from the M&P. I loaded Accurate #2 at 4.2-4.4gns. shooting 115gn Extreme FMJ bullet. Went back to the drawing board and loaded the next batch at 4.4-4.6gns. They worked better (ejected fine) but still felt light to store-bought reloads. So third time's the charm and I loaded out 30 rounds at max load (Lee manual) 4.6gns and waiting to test.
My question: could my crimp be affecting performance? I re-read the Dillon manual and re-adjusted my crimp die though it ended up about the same. When I break down a cartridge, I see a very slight indent ring around the fmj (no cannelure). Testing crimped edges with my fingers with a factory round felt similar. Caliper measurement at case crimp was slightly less than spec'd in Lee's diagram (sorry, don't have the numbers with me). I think the crimp is too light because when breaking down with kinetic hammer tool it only takes one or two strikes. Also, two rounds out of 30 had loose bullets which dropped slightly into the case; probably due to running them through the resizer several times and creating too much bell? Or too light crimp? Manual says that may be due to too TIGHT crimp. How do you set the crimp amount?
Love the XL650 compared to my old presses. I was able to set up the press on my existing bench but cannot use a case collator due to height restrictions. The Dillon web dimensions include the piston drop down below the bench edge. I think from base to top of clear case feed tube/black collator support is approx 32" so it fits nicely. Need enough room to remove/replace the primer wand though.
Thanks all, happy reloading!
Quote from Reloader on April 14, 2015, 3:59 pmI set my powder die to flare only enough to be able to set a bullet on the case with the bullet base just starting into the case. Might take a few adjustments as longer cases will be flared more and short cases less. I set the crimp to just take out the flare. I start out with not enough crimp and make small adjustments increasing the crimp until the crimp is the same diameter as just below the crimp. When I breake down rounds I don't see a ring around the bullet where the crimp was.
I haven't had loose bullets due to over crimp but I have a friend that loads 38 special (roll crimp) for Cowboy Action and he called me to help set his crimp. He had so much crimp that you could spin the bullets in the loaded rounds by hand. For this to happen your crimp is set so tight that you are actually swaging the bullet down to a smaller diameter. Not Good!!
BTW, I am loading square based cast lead bullets.
I set my powder die to flare only enough to be able to set a bullet on the case with the bullet base just starting into the case. Might take a few adjustments as longer cases will be flared more and short cases less. I set the crimp to just take out the flare. I start out with not enough crimp and make small adjustments increasing the crimp until the crimp is the same diameter as just below the crimp. When I breake down rounds I don't see a ring around the bullet where the crimp was.
I haven't had loose bullets due to over crimp but I have a friend that loads 38 special (roll crimp) for Cowboy Action and he called me to help set his crimp. He had so much crimp that you could spin the bullets in the loaded rounds by hand. For this to happen your crimp is set so tight that you are actually swaging the bullet down to a smaller diameter. Not Good!!
BTW, I am loading square based cast lead bullets.
Quote from Reloader on April 14, 2015, 5:46 pmThanks, BR549. I believe my powder die is set correctly-flare is minimal. Crimp smoothes out the flare so it "feels" pretty close to factory ammo by running fingers over crimp on both. My caliper measures slightly less than the Lee manual illustration. See a very slight indent line around my Extreme 115gr fmj. Will check firing my several max (4.6gr) loads soon and see how much they improve if any. Will try different powders too, Accur #5, Universal, and Benchmark. By the way, how long do powders last kept in container in closed, dry cabinet, etc. Expiration dates? Just wondering...Thanks.
Thanks, BR549. I believe my powder die is set correctly-flare is minimal. Crimp smoothes out the flare so it "feels" pretty close to factory ammo by running fingers over crimp on both. My caliper measures slightly less than the Lee manual illustration. See a very slight indent line around my Extreme 115gr fmj. Will check firing my several max (4.6gr) loads soon and see how much they improve if any. Will try different powders too, Accur #5, Universal, and Benchmark. By the way, how long do powders last kept in container in closed, dry cabinet, etc. Expiration dates? Just wondering...Thanks.
Quote from Reloader on April 15, 2015, 4:17 pmYour die setup sounds fine. As far as shelf life of powder, as long as stored properly I don't know that there is one. My oldest is 5 years old but I have heard of much, much longer than that.
Your die setup sounds fine. As far as shelf life of powder, as long as stored properly I don't know that there is one. My oldest is 5 years old but I have heard of much, much longer than that.
Quote from Reloader on April 16, 2015, 1:09 amAccurate 2 is not the best choice for 9mm. Dirty and ya have to load on the high side of max from my experience. Best Wishes
Accurate 2 is not the best choice for 9mm. Dirty and ya have to load on the high side of max from my experience. Best Wishes
Quote from Reloader on April 21, 2015, 3:48 pmHave to agree with timstutts-Accur 2 is not great for 9mm. Tried a few max loads and they worked but not great. Accur 5 & Universal were much better (stuff I have on hand).
Have to agree with timstutts-Accur 2 is not great for 9mm. Tried a few max loads and they worked but not great. Accur 5 & Universal were much better (stuff I have on hand).
Quote from Reloader on May 4, 2015, 8:54 pmUpdate on the .223/5.56 poor primer seating issues: the Dillon Super Swager works great! Solved the problem, life is good! Thanks to whoever it was that said ALL .223/5.56 may have crimped pockets. To wrap up, been buying gear direct from Dillon and very pleased with the advice and turn around-even called once with great service and fairly short wait time! But, just like going to Costco, can't leave w/o dropping at least a c-note. Wish list: easier way to empty/change out the powder hopper.
Update on the .223/5.56 poor primer seating issues: the Dillon Super Swager works great! Solved the problem, life is good! Thanks to whoever it was that said ALL .223/5.56 may have crimped pockets. To wrap up, been buying gear direct from Dillon and very pleased with the advice and turn around-even called once with great service and fairly short wait time! But, just like going to Costco, can't leave w/o dropping at least a c-note. Wish list: easier way to empty/change out the powder hopper.