ordering a press have a few ?
Quote from Reloader on June 2, 2013, 7:16 amhello
I am new at this and pretty muck clueless 🙂
I think the 550b is the best press for me I need to load 9mm 10mm 45acp 223 and 308
I don't understand what it entails to change calibers. I savvy you need dies but what else in involved?
in going through the buying guide it asks about powder dies and powder bars do I need these?
do I need case gauges for all the calibers?
50 bucks for a handle is that necessary?
I have read that you need to trim riffle brass but not pistol brass is that true?
I would love to get any tips advise on what I need to buy and what I should know
thanks alot
hello
I am new at this and pretty muck clueless 🙂
I think the 550b is the best press for me I need to load 9mm 10mm 45acp 223 and 308
I don't understand what it entails to change calibers. I savvy you need dies but what else in involved?
in going through the buying guide it asks about powder dies and powder bars do I need these?
do I need case gauges for all the calibers?
50 bucks for a handle is that necessary?
I have read that you need to trim riffle brass but not pistol brass is that true?
I would love to get any tips advise on what I need to buy and what I should know
thanks alot
Quote from Reloader on June 2, 2013, 5:05 pmIf you want to leave your dies set up on a TOOL HEAD . Yes you will need a Powder Die.
Powder funnel is caliber specific
Pins are cheap, just get a set of each. with 9,40 and 45 you'll need 1,2,and 3.
Powder Bars, with what comes with your powder drop (small and large), you should be good with the calibers your showing.
Pistols don't really need trimming. Rifle yes. Read your loading manualIf your not sure, try calling Dillon, they are very helpful. But keep in mind they are busy as he!!, so your wait might be a while on the phone.
Good luck an load safe.
A good loaders forum is www.thefirearmsforum.com . Learn a lot there
If you want to leave your dies set up on a TOOL HEAD . Yes you will need a Powder Die.
Powder funnel is caliber specific
Pins are cheap, just get a set of each. with 9,40 and 45 you'll need 1,2,and 3.
Powder Bars, with what comes with your powder drop (small and large), you should be good with the calibers your showing.
Pistols don't really need trimming. Rifle yes. Read your loading manual
If your not sure, try calling Dillon, they are very helpful. But keep in mind they are busy as he!!, so your wait might be a while on the phone.
Good luck an load safe.
A good loaders forum is http://www.thefirearmsforum.com . Learn a lot there
Quote from Reloader on June 2, 2013, 11:30 pmI just started myself with the 550. The first thing you need before anything is reloading manuals. I read a lot before starting and help from a friend that has been reloading for 20+ years. I read "The ABC's of Reloading", "Lyman's Reloading Handbook", and "Lee's Modern Reloading". I reload 223 and 9mm. You will need a press, caliber conversion kit for each caliber (1 conversion kit will come with the press), dies for each caliber, quick change kit (so you will not have to change the dies out every time you change caliber reloading), scale, caliper, brass, bullets, powder, primers, swage (for military brass), media tumbler, media, case lube, gauges for each caliber, and chamfer/demurring tool. That is some and I know there is more you can get. There are a lot of folks that have been reloading for a long time and the Internet is a great tool for researching reloading. Hope this helps.
I just started myself with the 550. The first thing you need before anything is reloading manuals. I read a lot before starting and help from a friend that has been reloading for 20+ years. I read "The ABC's of Reloading", "Lyman's Reloading Handbook", and "Lee's Modern Reloading". I reload 223 and 9mm. You will need a press, caliber conversion kit for each caliber (1 conversion kit will come with the press), dies for each caliber, quick change kit (so you will not have to change the dies out every time you change caliber reloading), scale, caliper, brass, bullets, powder, primers, swage (for military brass), media tumbler, media, case lube, gauges for each caliber, and chamfer/demurring tool. That is some and I know there is more you can get. There are a lot of folks that have been reloading for a long time and the Internet is a great tool for researching reloading. Hope this helps.
Quote from Reloader on June 7, 2013, 2:46 amparker, 550 exc choice since u want to load 223 / 308... square deal not an option for you since that's for handgun cartridges only. My 550 is outstanding. the machine comes with a large and small powder bar and primer bar.
Changing calibers: to switch from say 9mm to 308 you will (obviously) need the change in dies. so, assuming you will get a tool head for ea caliber and dies, it's a one time setup and leave it alone. Get a tool head stand for ea caliber so you have a place store the tool head when u take it off the loader. to remove the 9mm tool head / dies, pull two pins, slide off. take 308 tool head with the dies and slide it on. replace the two referenced pins. easy, about 30 seconds is all u need.
you also have to switch the shell plate. that's the where the brass sits as it turns in the machine. it's held in place with one bolt. easy to swtich. just remember to loosen the locking pin on the shaft. this is all in the manual during setup.
In our example, since you are going from 9mm to 308 that means you are switching from small pistol primers to large rifle primers. You have to switch your primer bar from small to large. that means you remove the two screws under the primer bar and switch the bar from small to large. again this is pretty easy. you have to get your hands on the equip and see for yourself where the various parts are to get comfortable. much of the setup is a one time adjustment process and that's it. Unless u want variable loads (target, hot). I load both. that involves just making an adjustment to your 2d stage die (powder) and all that is, is a slight turn of the die after loosening the lock ring to get addl powder or less.
same deal with the powder bar. 9mm will use the small and the 308 will take the large. your machine arrives with the small inserted. so, when u setup your tool heads, u setup the powder bar for the caliber and that's it. one time setup and leave it alone. for all calibers greater than 20 grains, you will stick with the large regardless of the caliber.
dont get the $50 handle, the machine comes with one.
case gauges: u can get away with not getting any. all you NEED is to measure your rounds to verify that your overall length is within specifications. all this information is in any reloading book. get what dillon sells, read the book and review your calibers. it'll all make sense.
rifle brass needs trimming if too long.
reloading rifle takes more time bc there is an extra step vs handgun. you have to lube before depriming.
parker, 550 exc choice since u want to load 223 / 308... square deal not an option for you since that's for handgun cartridges only. My 550 is outstanding. the machine comes with a large and small powder bar and primer bar.
Changing calibers: to switch from say 9mm to 308 you will (obviously) need the change in dies. so, assuming you will get a tool head for ea caliber and dies, it's a one time setup and leave it alone. Get a tool head stand for ea caliber so you have a place store the tool head when u take it off the loader. to remove the 9mm tool head / dies, pull two pins, slide off. take 308 tool head with the dies and slide it on. replace the two referenced pins. easy, about 30 seconds is all u need.
you also have to switch the shell plate. that's the where the brass sits as it turns in the machine. it's held in place with one bolt. easy to swtich. just remember to loosen the locking pin on the shaft. this is all in the manual during setup.
In our example, since you are going from 9mm to 308 that means you are switching from small pistol primers to large rifle primers. You have to switch your primer bar from small to large. that means you remove the two screws under the primer bar and switch the bar from small to large. again this is pretty easy. you have to get your hands on the equip and see for yourself where the various parts are to get comfortable. much of the setup is a one time adjustment process and that's it. Unless u want variable loads (target, hot). I load both. that involves just making an adjustment to your 2d stage die (powder) and all that is, is a slight turn of the die after loosening the lock ring to get addl powder or less.
same deal with the powder bar. 9mm will use the small and the 308 will take the large. your machine arrives with the small inserted. so, when u setup your tool heads, u setup the powder bar for the caliber and that's it. one time setup and leave it alone. for all calibers greater than 20 grains, you will stick with the large regardless of the caliber.
dont get the $50 handle, the machine comes with one.
case gauges: u can get away with not getting any. all you NEED is to measure your rounds to verify that your overall length is within specifications. all this information is in any reloading book. get what dillon sells, read the book and review your calibers. it'll all make sense.
rifle brass needs trimming if too long.
reloading rifle takes more time bc there is an extra step vs handgun. you have to lube before depriming.
Quote from Reloader on June 7, 2013, 3:11 pmWhen you purchase the machine it includes a conversion kit (shellplate,locator buttons, powder funnel). toolhead and powder die, so you only need to add dies for your first caliber. For subsequent calibers, you generally need a die set, caliber conversion kit, toolhead and powder die. For the cartridges you named you do not need any additional powder bars. We strongly recommend case gages for the rifle calibers, as bottleneck cases are more complicated, needed the shoulder set back a proper depth as well as checking case length. Bottleneck cases stretch, so they need to be trimmed every two or three firings. Straightwall handgun cases don't stretch.
The roller handle is purely optional. A straight handle with a ball knob end comes with the machine. Purchase of the roller handle is purely personal preference.
When you purchase the machine it includes a conversion kit (shellplate,locator buttons, powder funnel). toolhead and powder die, so you only need to add dies for your first caliber. For subsequent calibers, you generally need a die set, caliber conversion kit, toolhead and powder die. For the cartridges you named you do not need any additional powder bars. We strongly recommend case gages for the rifle calibers, as bottleneck cases are more complicated, needed the shoulder set back a proper depth as well as checking case length. Bottleneck cases stretch, so they need to be trimmed every two or three firings. Straightwall handgun cases don't stretch.
The roller handle is purely optional. A straight handle with a ball knob end comes with the machine. Purchase of the roller handle is purely personal preference.