power measure problems
Quote from Reloader on December 24, 2011, 1:34 pmHello Everyone
I have the SD B and fairly new to reloading. I started out on the Dillon SD B and would have problems with the "Squibs" the bullets not leaving the barrel once fired. I would get appox 3 % of these dud rounds in each batch of 45 ACP's that I made. I sent the press back to Dillons for a complete re-conditioning and tried again with the same results of a few squibs per 100 rounds.
The outside of these casings would have a common black burned residue on them. I cant figure out if the problem is little or no powder in the round or if the crimp is to weak and allows the power to burn back behind the casing or if I have defective brass, bullet, crimp die, or operator.
What can I do to reduce the amount of bad/squibs rounds that I am making?
Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks
The thing about Squibs is that you have to take a perfectly good hammer to a perfectly good weapon. Something is just wrong with that.
Hello Everyone
I have the SD B and fairly new to reloading. I started out on the Dillon SD B and would have problems with the "Squibs" the bullets not leaving the barrel once fired. I would get appox 3 % of these dud rounds in each batch of 45 ACP's that I made. I sent the press back to Dillons for a complete re-conditioning and tried again with the same results of a few squibs per 100 rounds.
The outside of these casings would have a common black burned residue on them. I cant figure out if the problem is little or no powder in the round or if the crimp is to weak and allows the power to burn back behind the casing or if I have defective brass, bullet, crimp die, or operator.
What can I do to reduce the amount of bad/squibs rounds that I am making?
Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks
The thing about Squibs is that you have to take a perfectly good hammer to a perfectly good weapon. Something is just wrong with that.
Quote from Reloader on December 24, 2011, 10:26 pmSounds to me your failsafe rod is not adjusted correctly. I recommend slowing down and watch that the failsafe rod completely pulls Slotted Bellcrank & Cube completely down on each upstroke. Then on the down stroke pause at the bottom and verify the powder bar has moved completely over. I expect you will see where the problem is by checking each of these place on a cycle of the handle.
What powder is being used and which powder bar?
Sounds to me your failsafe rod is not adjusted correctly. I recommend slowing down and watch that the failsafe rod completely pulls Slotted Bellcrank & Cube completely down on each upstroke. Then on the down stroke pause at the bottom and verify the powder bar has moved completely over. I expect you will see where the problem is by checking each of these place on a cycle of the handle.
What powder is being used and which powder bar?
Quote from Reloader on December 27, 2011, 12:03 amBoy, with the failsafe rod in place and adjusted I have never had a squib. I used to have them. I bought one of the first Square Deal B reloaders, like in the late 1980's. It didn't have a fail safe rod on it. I got in the habit of removing the index pib (the brasspin) near the shell plate, station 3, and every cycle I would remove the casing and look into the case to see the powder. Then re-index it and place bullet and go. Sounds like work but I am extremely effecient at it. Since the failsafe bar I don't know if I have seen a case without powder, except when an old case split down the side and wouldn't push up the powder bar. I still look at each one out of habit, and especially since I bought a Henry's .357 rifle. I really don't want a bullet half way down a rifle length barrel.
Boy, with the failsafe rod in place and adjusted I have never had a squib. I used to have them. I bought one of the first Square Deal B reloaders, like in the late 1980's. It didn't have a fail safe rod on it. I got in the habit of removing the index pib (the brasspin) near the shell plate, station 3, and every cycle I would remove the casing and look into the case to see the powder. Then re-index it and place bullet and go. Sounds like work but I am extremely effecient at it. Since the failsafe bar I don't know if I have seen a case without powder, except when an old case split down the side and wouldn't push up the powder bar. I still look at each one out of habit, and especially since I bought a Henry's .357 rifle. I really don't want a bullet half way down a rifle length barrel.
Quote from Reloader on December 27, 2011, 5:04 pm+1 on the failsafe rod adjustment. Push forward on the handle as if seating a primer, and hold it there. Now, while maintaining forward pressure on the handle, tighten the blue wing nut until the coil spring above it is partially compressed.
Another adjustment to check is the case mouth expansion. To insure that the powder bar fully travels all the way over, make sure case mouths are flared at leaast .010'' larger than a sized, unflared case. This makes sure the powder bar fully travels before the handle bottoms out.
Make sure you start with the hopper at least 2/3- 3/4 full, throw 10-15 charges and dump them back to settle powder under the baffle before you begin weighing powder charges.
Keep an eye on the powder bar. Visually confirm that it is completely travelling in both directions.
+1 on the failsafe rod adjustment. Push forward on the handle as if seating a primer, and hold it there. Now, while maintaining forward pressure on the handle, tighten the blue wing nut until the coil spring above it is partially compressed.
Another adjustment to check is the case mouth expansion. To insure that the powder bar fully travels all the way over, make sure case mouths are flared at leaast .010'' larger than a sized, unflared case. This makes sure the powder bar fully travels before the handle bottoms out.
Make sure you start with the hopper at least 2/3- 3/4 full, throw 10-15 charges and dump them back to settle powder under the baffle before you begin weighing powder charges.
Keep an eye on the powder bar. Visually confirm that it is completely travelling in both directions.
Quote from Reloader on January 29, 2012, 5:56 amIs the powder bar supposed to travel until it is flush with powder die body?
My powder bar moves to within 3/8" of the powder dies body.
is this how it is supposed to operate?
Is the powder bar supposed to travel until it is flush with powder die body?
My powder bar moves to within 3/8" of the powder dies body.
is this how it is supposed to operate?
Quote from Reloader on January 31, 2012, 4:27 pmWith a case under the powder measure and the handle pulled down, the powder bar should travel completely to the far side, so it is flush with the front of the powder measure housing. It yours does travel that far, then you need to turn the powder die down more. I suggest turning it down in 1/2 turn increments until the powder bar fully travels, and the case mouth is truly flared.
With a case under the powder measure and the handle pulled down, the powder bar should travel completely to the far side, so it is flush with the front of the powder measure housing. It yours does travel that far, then you need to turn the powder die down more. I suggest turning it down in 1/2 turn increments until the powder bar fully travels, and the case mouth is truly flared.