Pre-Fail safe return rod powder measure
Quote from Reloader on November 28, 2010, 11:58 pmI have a 20 year old Dillon 550 (not sure it is a B model or not). The powder measure used the two small springs to return the slide.
I have a 3 year old RL 550B with the fail safe return rod. I also have a couple of other powder measures (one new, one 15 years old). The new one has the safety the other doesn't.
I really just prefer the spring return system. Partially due to my older press not having the attachment for the rod. Mainly because it works and is much quicker to remove to change powders.
Can you still buy replacement springs for the old measure system?
I don't see them listed in the exploded diagrams.
On my newer measures, I just deactivate the safety mechanism with a machine screw through the hole the rod would normally pass through. I bought some springs that are stronger than needed, but work. I would like the weaker springs like my first powder measure uses.
Any issue with me using spring returns on the new measures? Can you answer why Dillon complicated the design by eliminating the spring return, and adding the safe return rod?
I'm looking for flexibility to swap powder measures between my presses. I'm sure you offer the parts to switch my older press to the newer system, but as I have stated, that isn't the direction I prefer to go, unless there is some earth shaking reason I am not aware of.
thanks for listening and any light you can shed on this.
I have a 20 year old Dillon 550 (not sure it is a B model or not). The powder measure used the two small springs to return the slide.
I have a 3 year old RL 550B with the fail safe return rod. I also have a couple of other powder measures (one new, one 15 years old). The new one has the safety the other doesn't.
I really just prefer the spring return system. Partially due to my older press not having the attachment for the rod. Mainly because it works and is much quicker to remove to change powders.
Can you still buy replacement springs for the old measure system?
I don't see them listed in the exploded diagrams.
On my newer measures, I just deactivate the safety mechanism with a machine screw through the hole the rod would normally pass through. I bought some springs that are stronger than needed, but work. I would like the weaker springs like my first powder measure uses.
Any issue with me using spring returns on the new measures? Can you answer why Dillon complicated the design by eliminating the spring return, and adding the safe return rod?
I'm looking for flexibility to swap powder measures between my presses. I'm sure you offer the parts to switch my older press to the newer system, but as I have stated, that isn't the direction I prefer to go, unless there is some earth shaking reason I am not aware of.
thanks for listening and any light you can shed on this.
Quote from Reloader on November 29, 2010, 2:12 pmReplacement springs are available, both online and over the phone. Stock#14036. There are a couple of reasons for the design change; the first is it delays return of the powder bar so that on an auto-indexing machine the shellplate has rotated to the next position before the powder bar can pick up the next powder charge. In addition, with bulky powders such as flake or extruded, the extra "thunk" helps settle the powder, giving more consistant charges. The new systems are not designed for use with springs, just use the failsafe rod to retract the powder bar.
Replacement springs are available, both online and over the phone. Stock#14036. There are a couple of reasons for the design change; the first is it delays return of the powder bar so that on an auto-indexing machine the shellplate has rotated to the next position before the powder bar can pick up the next powder charge. In addition, with bulky powders such as flake or extruded, the extra "thunk" helps settle the powder, giving more consistant charges. The new systems are not designed for use with springs, just use the failsafe rod to retract the powder bar.
Quote from Reloader on November 30, 2010, 4:16 amPolish the slope of the powder bar to also help in more consistent charges. This idea was provided to me by a vendor. It appears to improve the charge variations.
Polish the slope of the powder bar to also help in more consistent charges. This idea was provided to me by a vendor. It appears to improve the charge variations.
Quote from Reloader on December 23, 2010, 11:58 pmAfter getting the prompt reply (thanks!). I call Dillon, to discuss further and to potentially order the parts to convert my RL 550, and my other 2 measures to fail safe design.
In discussion with the Dillon rep, I shared that I only load pistol rounds, not rifle. I also have had excellent accuracy, even with difficult to measure powders such as Unique. With that information, he suggested I continue to use springs.
So I polished my measure cones and got some weaker springs from the local hardware store. Everything is working extremely well. And it is a lot less effort to change powders. I don't have to deal with the rod.
After getting the prompt reply (thanks!). I call Dillon, to discuss further and to potentially order the parts to convert my RL 550, and my other 2 measures to fail safe design.
In discussion with the Dillon rep, I shared that I only load pistol rounds, not rifle. I also have had excellent accuracy, even with difficult to measure powders such as Unique. With that information, he suggested I continue to use springs.
So I polished my measure cones and got some weaker springs from the local hardware store. Everything is working extremely well. And it is a lot less effort to change powders. I don't have to deal with the rod.
Quote from Reloader on January 20, 2011, 4:23 pmjepp2, thanks for posting your final solution. Why the difference between pistol and rifle cartridges with the failsafe rod? Is it because it's pretty obvious when a pistol case is over powdered?
jepp2, thanks for posting your final solution. Why the difference between pistol and rifle cartridges with the failsafe rod? Is it because it's pretty obvious when a pistol case is over powdered?
Quote from Reloader on August 24, 2015, 3:17 pmNeed general info on dillon pre-failsafe powder measure. How do you remove the powder reservoir? Would like to remove to clean it. Doesn't have the 2 screws that hold it in like the later models. appears to pressed in, possibly with and O ring. Afraid of breaking it and not being able to replace. Have the failsafe style rod. Will I be able to use that instead of the older one? Thanks.
Need general info on dillon pre-failsafe powder measure. How do you remove the powder reservoir? Would like to remove to clean it. Doesn't have the 2 screws that hold it in like the later models. appears to pressed in, possibly with and O ring. Afraid of breaking it and not being able to replace. Have the failsafe style rod. Will I be able to use that instead of the older one? Thanks.
Quote from Reloader on August 24, 2015, 4:07 pmOn the older powder measures, the clear plastic hopper is glued in place, and is not readily removable. The new style failsafe rod works on both the one-piece and two-piece bellcrank designs.
On the older powder measures, the clear plastic hopper is glued in place, and is not readily removable. The new style failsafe rod works on both the one-piece and two-piece bellcrank designs.
Quote from Reloader on August 24, 2015, 4:17 pm"On the older powder measures, the clear plastic hopper is glued in place, and is not readily removable. The new style failsafe rod works on both the one-piece and two-piece bellcrank designs." by Dillon
Thanks for the quick response. I'll clean the hopper on the powder measure. It appears to be new as the cap still taped on with blue tape and there's no evidence of powder residue on it anywhere. Thanks for your help.
"On the older powder measures, the clear plastic hopper is glued in place, and is not readily removable. The new style failsafe rod works on both the one-piece and two-piece bellcrank designs." by Dillon
Thanks for the quick response. I'll clean the hopper on the powder measure. It appears to be new as the cap still taped on with blue tape and there's no evidence of powder residue on it anywhere. Thanks for your help.