Primer seating (again:()
Quote from Reloader on September 9, 2014, 3:13 amI have a persistent primer seating problem during loading of .223. Now I gave gone back through the forum and have read everything there is on this problem. I have also taken apart and put back together my primer seating, shell plate etc. several times. Everything is up to specs but I'm still losing about 10 primers out of each 100 due to a little sliver being shaved off. I can go 10-20 cases in a row with perfect seating then all of a sudden ill have 1-2 in a row with a seating issue. I have deprimed my brass cleaned the primer pocket of each. But the problem persists the brass I'm loading is not military brass but my own Federal brass I shot out of my own weapon. This has me stumped I really don't want to throw away 100 or so primers out of every 1000. So any ideas please keep in mind I have loaded over 10000 rounds mostly pistol with no issues. I have also tried most ideas given out on this forum to no avail. Thanks in advance.
I have a persistent primer seating problem during loading of .223. Now I gave gone back through the forum and have read everything there is on this problem. I have also taken apart and put back together my primer seating, shell plate etc. several times. Everything is up to specs but I'm still losing about 10 primers out of each 100 due to a little sliver being shaved off. I can go 10-20 cases in a row with perfect seating then all of a sudden ill have 1-2 in a row with a seating issue. I have deprimed my brass cleaned the primer pocket of each. But the problem persists the brass I'm loading is not military brass but my own Federal brass I shot out of my own weapon. This has me stumped I really don't want to throw away 100 or so primers out of every 1000. So any ideas please keep in mind I have loaded over 10000 rounds mostly pistol with no issues. I have also tried most ideas given out on this forum to no avail. Thanks in advance.
Quote from Reloader on September 9, 2014, 10:25 amWhat brand primers? Have you tried a different brand? Have you rechecked the platform alignment? Are the platform screws tight? Do you have the proper primer punch & cup installed?
What brand primers? Have you tried a different brand? Have you rechecked the platform alignment? Are the platform screws tight? Do you have the proper primer punch & cup installed?
Quote from Reloader on September 9, 2014, 4:34 pmSome Federal cases in 223 still have crimped primer pockets, despite being "commercial " brass. Also, be sure you have the small primer slide installed (brass colored cup), and that the shellplate bolt is properly tightened. Test this by pushing down on the edge of the shellplate between stations 2 and 3. If it feels springy, then the bolt needs to be tighter.
Some Federal cases in 223 still have crimped primer pockets, despite being "commercial " brass. Also, be sure you have the small primer slide installed (brass colored cup), and that the shellplate bolt is properly tightened. Test this by pushing down on the edge of the shellplate between stations 2 and 3. If it feels springy, then the bolt needs to be tighter.
Quote from Reloader on September 9, 2014, 10:18 pmI have run into Winchester, Federal, and Hornady .223 brass that had crimped in primers. If you bought commercial ammo, fired it one time, and are now reloading it, check carefully for the primer crimp. I made that assumption with commercial brass, and now check every type first before re-priming.
I have run into Winchester, Federal, and Hornady .223 brass that had crimped in primers. If you bought commercial ammo, fired it one time, and are now reloading it, check carefully for the primer crimp. I made that assumption with commercial brass, and now check every type first before re-priming.
Quote from Reloader on September 10, 2014, 1:48 pmThanks for the responses guys my press is set up perfectly to specs checked it twice. As I stated above I read all the previous responses on this issue and checked my press for all of them that's why I am stumped. Everything is correct and locked down tight. I'm running CCI #400 primers so no issues there. I did not know Federal was sneaking in crimped brass. During loading the crimp issue did cross my mind but I could not tell the difference between one that would load and one that would not. If it is crimped what kind of sign would tell me so? Should I just ream each piece of brass after depriming just to be safe? Thanks again all
Thanks for the responses guys my press is set up perfectly to specs checked it twice. As I stated above I read all the previous responses on this issue and checked my press for all of them that's why I am stumped. Everything is correct and locked down tight. I'm running CCI #400 primers so no issues there. I did not know Federal was sneaking in crimped brass. During loading the crimp issue did cross my mind but I could not tell the difference between one that would load and one that would not. If it is crimped what kind of sign would tell me so? Should I just ream each piece of brass after depriming just to be safe? Thanks again all
Quote from Reloader on September 10, 2014, 5:21 pmOnly load pistol on the progressive (until my RL550B arrives), but have you tried different brands of primers?
Only load pistol on the progressive (until my RL550B arrives), but have you tried different brands of primers?
Quote from Reloader on September 10, 2014, 10:06 pmThe crimped primers will have the appearance of a ring around the primer where the brass was forced against the side of the primer. Believe me it is a PITA to check every primer. I ended up swaging every pocket, which means sizing and de-priming, then removing from press to swage or ream. I originally sorted by headstamp, then noticed that some of the Hornady's, Remingtons or Winchesters in each batch were crimped. Just caved and swaged them all to eliminate finding a cruched or shaved primer after the brass was reloaded.
The crimped primers will have the appearance of a ring around the primer where the brass was forced against the side of the primer. Believe me it is a PITA to check every primer. I ended up swaging every pocket, which means sizing and de-priming, then removing from press to swage or ream. I originally sorted by headstamp, then noticed that some of the Hornady's, Remingtons or Winchesters in each batch were crimped. Just caved and swaged them all to eliminate finding a cruched or shaved primer after the brass was reloaded.
Quote from Reloader on September 11, 2014, 1:27 pmThanks byrnm I thinks that's the way in going to go. Since I already deprime and clean the primer pocket before loading I'm just going to go ahead and swag it. At least that way I'll know it's done. That's for the advice guys really appreciate it.
Thanks byrnm I thinks that's the way in going to go. Since I already deprime and clean the primer pocket before loading I'm just going to go ahead and swag it. At least that way I'll know it's done. That's for the advice guys really appreciate it.
Quote from Reloader on September 15, 2014, 10:08 pmThis does not relate to .223 priming, but I have found the hard way that S & B pistol brass, while not crimped, has such a tight pocket dimension, that I end up swaging them in a group also. I usually don't sort 9 mm (except WCC military) and .40 S&W brass, but I ran into some deformed primers that were all common to S & B brass.
This does not relate to .223 priming, but I have found the hard way that S & B pistol brass, while not crimped, has such a tight pocket dimension, that I end up swaging them in a group also. I usually don't sort 9 mm (except WCC military) and .40 S&W brass, but I ran into some deformed primers that were all common to S & B brass.