RL 450 is stiff
Quote from Reloader on April 21, 2010, 12:42 amMy RL 450 has suddenly become a bit stiff (much like myself). I didn't notice it much when I was processing ammo (.38 SPL), but after I cycled the press with no cases in any stations I noticed a bit of resistence. Also after a bit of travel the resistence ends, and the arm comes to a rest almost like there was a detent. Continuing to cycle the resistance continues. The same thing happens on both the upstroke and the downstroke. This thing is like 25 years old, I don't even have a drawing of it. Any ideas how to troubleshoot this?
My RL 450 has suddenly become a bit stiff (much like myself). I didn't notice it much when I was processing ammo (.38 SPL), but after I cycled the press with no cases in any stations I noticed a bit of resistence. Also after a bit of travel the resistence ends, and the arm comes to a rest almost like there was a detent. Continuing to cycle the resistance continues. The same thing happens on both the upstroke and the downstroke. This thing is like 25 years old, I don't even have a drawing of it. Any ideas how to troubleshoot this?
Quote from Reloader on April 22, 2010, 3:45 pmIt sounds like the pivot pins are dry, and in need of regreasing. To do so requires partial disassembly of the machine. Phone or e-mail us for a disassembly punch, alignment tool , and basic instructions. The pivot pins all need grease, and 30 wt motor oil on the shaft.
It sounds like the pivot pins are dry, and in need of regreasing. To do so requires partial disassembly of the machine. Phone or e-mail us for a disassembly punch, alignment tool , and basic instructions. The pivot pins all need grease, and 30 wt motor oil on the shaft.
Quote from Reloader on July 4, 2010, 2:50 pmrhitch,
I was loading .223s on my 550B yesterday and had exactly the same thing. I guess the factory grease solidifys after 25 years or so.
I tried lubicating the ram, but it didn't help.
When I tapped the bottom cross pin out, after loosening the set screw, the ram was free and easy to slide up and down.
I got my can of Kroil and went after the cross pin that connects the bottom of the two link arms. Drop, drop, drop, tap, tap, tap and it finally came out.
Then I tried to move the two links on their top pins. Wow, that seems to be where the problem is!
I have had their top ends soaking all night with Kroil and I'm just about to go down in the basement and see if they are any looser. If they haven't loosened up these are going to be a bugger because I can't see any way to drive the pins out.
Charlie
rhitch,
I was loading .223s on my 550B yesterday and had exactly the same thing. I guess the factory grease solidifys after 25 years or so.
I tried lubicating the ram, but it didn't help.
When I tapped the bottom cross pin out, after loosening the set screw, the ram was free and easy to slide up and down.
I got my can of Kroil and went after the cross pin that connects the bottom of the two link arms. Drop, drop, drop, tap, tap, tap and it finally came out.
Then I tried to move the two links on their top pins. Wow, that seems to be where the problem is!
I have had their top ends soaking all night with Kroil and I'm just about to go down in the basement and see if they are any looser. If they haven't loosened up these are going to be a bugger because I can't see any way to drive the pins out.
Charlie
Quote from Reloader on July 7, 2010, 3:53 pmTo remove the upper pivot pins, you first need to detach the platform from the top of the shaft, remove the short pivot pin that connects the crank to the bottom of the shaft, and slide the shaft out the bottom of the frame. The upper right pivot pin is hollow. Run a punch through this pin to drive out the upper left pivot pin, then come back through this pin hole to drive out the upper right pin. Clean up any metal transfer from the pin, use medium grit sandpaper to smooth any roughness on the link arm holes, liberally grease the holes in the frame, the holes in the link arms, and the pivot pins. Hammer the upper pivot pins back in place.
You will need a platform alignment tool for reassembly. Contact us and we'll send one to you, along with a punch and instructions.
To remove the upper pivot pins, you first need to detach the platform from the top of the shaft, remove the short pivot pin that connects the crank to the bottom of the shaft, and slide the shaft out the bottom of the frame. The upper right pivot pin is hollow. Run a punch through this pin to drive out the upper left pivot pin, then come back through this pin hole to drive out the upper right pin. Clean up any metal transfer from the pin, use medium grit sandpaper to smooth any roughness on the link arm holes, liberally grease the holes in the frame, the holes in the link arms, and the pivot pins. Hammer the upper pivot pins back in place.
You will need a platform alignment tool for reassembly. Contact us and we'll send one to you, along with a punch and instructions.
Quote from Reloader on July 7, 2010, 10:28 pmDillon,
Thanks for the offer, I'll send an email.
Have the engineers considered drilling small oil holes in the top of the links? And maybe the bottoms also.
Dillon,
Thanks for the offer, I'll send an email.
Have the engineers considered drilling small oil holes in the top of the links? And maybe the bottoms also.
Quote from Reloader on July 8, 2010, 5:21 pmYes, this was done years ago, so a needle fitting on a grease can be used to lube the pivot pins.
Yes, this was done years ago, so a needle fitting on a grease can be used to lube the pivot pins.