Setting up swage operation on RL1050
Quote from Reloader on March 24, 2019, 10:34 pmI am setting up my Super 1050 for .223 prep; decap, swage, trim/size and neck tension. I was having a lot of trouble with the swaging station, the answer was to cut a case in half (the long way) with a Dremel cut-off wheel to expose the primer pocket, flash hole and case floor. By inserting the cut case, I could easily adjust the backer die the correct depth and raise the swage tool to properly swage the primer pocket. I check the swage and neck tension with the Ballistic gages.
I am setting up my Super 1050 for .223 prep; decap, swage, trim/size and neck tension. I was having a lot of trouble with the swaging station, the answer was to cut a case in half (the long way) with a Dremel cut-off wheel to expose the primer pocket, flash hole and case floor. By inserting the cut case, I could easily adjust the backer die the correct depth and raise the swage tool to properly swage the primer pocket. I check the swage and neck tension with the Ballistic gages.
Quote from Reloader on June 19, 2019, 4:05 pmOne other consideration many brass have a flash hole burr. On the Dillon Super Swage 600 a burr can prevent the brass from going into the position so it can be swaged. So on the Super 1050 if you set your swage station with a case that has no flash hole burr then when you get a case with a flash hole burr that can be the reason some cases seems like the handle pressure is greater.
One other consideration many brass have a flash hole burr. On the Dillon Super Swage 600 a burr can prevent the brass from going into the position so it can be swaged. So on the Super 1050 if you set your swage station with a case that has no flash hole burr then when you get a case with a flash hole burr that can be the reason some cases seems like the handle pressure is greater.