Sluggish ram/primer slide
Quote from Reloader on November 19, 2011, 4:03 pmI have an RL550.
1.) There is considerable drag moving the ram up and down, even without any shells on the press. The resistance seems to change at times too. The ram is well lubricated with 30 wt motor oil as recommended but that doesn't seem to help. It doesn't take a huge effort but if you consider how many times you pull the handle, it has an accumulative effect. It wasn't like this when new. Any suggestions?
2.) The primer slide frequently hangs up. I've removed all solvents and the slide is not tight when operated by hand but sometimes it just hangs up when all the way back like metal is galling. I see reference to teflon on primer slides but there is not teflon on mine. Any suggestions?
3.) The straight rod handle sits a little too close to the press and makes it difficult for a ham-fisted operator to place empty cartridges at station one - especially smaller cartridges like the 9mm. Any suggestions?
4.) I had my spare powder and primer slides stored in a zip lock bag and found that after 10 years, they have corroded. I ran them through my Dillon tumbler which helped clean them up a little but not good enough to use. I'm thinking of using an oscillating sander with fine grit paper to restore the finish. Good idea or not?
Thanks
I have an RL550.
1.) There is considerable drag moving the ram up and down, even without any shells on the press. The resistance seems to change at times too. The ram is well lubricated with 30 wt motor oil as recommended but that doesn't seem to help. It doesn't take a huge effort but if you consider how many times you pull the handle, it has an accumulative effect. It wasn't like this when new. Any suggestions?
2.) The primer slide frequently hangs up. I've removed all solvents and the slide is not tight when operated by hand but sometimes it just hangs up when all the way back like metal is galling. I see reference to teflon on primer slides but there is not teflon on mine. Any suggestions?
3.) The straight rod handle sits a little too close to the press and makes it difficult for a ham-fisted operator to place empty cartridges at station one - especially smaller cartridges like the 9mm. Any suggestions?
4.) I had my spare powder and primer slides stored in a zip lock bag and found that after 10 years, they have corroded. I ran them through my Dillon tumbler which helped clean them up a little but not good enough to use. I'm thinking of using an oscillating sander with fine grit paper to restore the finish. Good idea or not?
Thanks
Quote from Reloader on November 20, 2011, 12:19 amFollowup for "question 1"
After disassembling and removing the shaft, I discovered that the shaft (ram) moved freely. The resistance is coming from the link arms binding around the upper link arm pins. With both hands holding onto the operating handle, it's barely possible to budge the link arms. It acts like it is more than an issue with lubricating the link arm pins, although I guess that's possible. My next step will be to attempt to drive out the link pins and see what's going on.
Can anyone offer advice on this?
Thanks
Followup for "question 1"
After disassembling and removing the shaft, I discovered that the shaft (ram) moved freely. The resistance is coming from the link arms binding around the upper link arm pins. With both hands holding onto the operating handle, it's barely possible to budge the link arms. It acts like it is more than an issue with lubricating the link arm pins, although I guess that's possible. My next step will be to attempt to drive out the link pins and see what's going on.
Can anyone offer advice on this?
Thanks
Quote from Reloader on November 20, 2011, 3:41 amYou are on the correct track. Been there done that.
1) Lots of oil soaking. Then press out the pins. Make sure you look at the manual on page 3 to see how the parts are built. If after cleaning, put back together with grease. If there is slop, then you can get replacement parts from Dillon. You can also get an upgraded grease fitting version.
2) Spray the metal parts with Hornaday One Shot (goes on wet, turns into dry lube). Should last a long time. If still having problems call dillon for advise. They will know if new parts are needed.
3) no suggestion here. I switched to roller handle. Easier on the shoulder. It might give you the space you need.
4) The oscillating sander will take off to much metal (and very fast). Bad idea. The parts are tight fitting to keep the powder from migrating. At best you can use 4oooo steel wool. Even that can take off too much. Once again best to talk to dillon. Be in front of the machine when talking with them. I expect they will say replace them.
Other suggestion: Send the machine back to Dillon for a refurb. Talk to dillon about it. They make the machine work like new. I know several people on the forum have spoken to the pros of this. For the number of problems you have, that may be the fastest, less cost method.
You are on the correct track. Been there done that.
1) Lots of oil soaking. Then press out the pins. Make sure you look at the manual on page 3 to see how the parts are built. If after cleaning, put back together with grease. If there is slop, then you can get replacement parts from Dillon. You can also get an upgraded grease fitting version.
2) Spray the metal parts with Hornaday One Shot (goes on wet, turns into dry lube). Should last a long time. If still having problems call dillon for advise. They will know if new parts are needed.
3) no suggestion here. I switched to roller handle. Easier on the shoulder. It might give you the space you need.
4) The oscillating sander will take off to much metal (and very fast). Bad idea. The parts are tight fitting to keep the powder from migrating. At best you can use 4oooo steel wool. Even that can take off too much. Once again best to talk to dillon. Be in front of the machine when talking with them. I expect they will say replace them.
Other suggestion: Send the machine back to Dillon for a refurb. Talk to dillon about it. They make the machine work like new. I know several people on the forum have spoken to the pros of this. For the number of problems you have, that may be the fastest, less cost method.
Quote from Reloader on November 21, 2011, 12:20 amThanks for the info lcb! I removed the link pins and spent a football game cleaning them up with a little scotchbrite, steel wool and elbow grease. They aren't perfect but I greased them up good, reassembled, and the press has NEVER run smoother. There was significant galling of the metal. I really didn't have a way of polishing the holes in the link arms so I hope this is not a temporary fix.
I see that I'm getting low on .223 so I've got my Dillon vibratory tumbler running now. Onward and upward.
Thanks for the info lcb! I removed the link pins and spent a football game cleaning them up with a little scotchbrite, steel wool and elbow grease. They aren't perfect but I greased them up good, reassembled, and the press has NEVER run smoother. There was significant galling of the metal. I really didn't have a way of polishing the holes in the link arms so I hope this is not a temporary fix.
I see that I'm getting low on .223 so I've got my Dillon vibratory tumbler running now. Onward and upward.
Quote from Reloader on December 4, 2011, 2:17 amAn easy method to polish the holes is to take a piece of wooden dowel smaller than the hole, cut a slot across one end of the dowel, and insert a strip of FINE emery paper (if it's really galled) or 600 - 1000 grit sandpaper, and wrap it around the dowel. Then just secure the part and spin the dowel between your palms as if trying to start a fire like in the old westerns.You could also chuck the dowel in a drill press or use a hand drill to drive it.
Monitor the bore often because you can't put the metal back. Remember, all you are trying to do is smooth the surface.
An easy method to polish the holes is to take a piece of wooden dowel smaller than the hole, cut a slot across one end of the dowel, and insert a strip of FINE emery paper (if it's really galled) or 600 - 1000 grit sandpaper, and wrap it around the dowel. Then just secure the part and spin the dowel between your palms as if trying to start a fire like in the old westerns.You could also chuck the dowel in a drill press or use a hand drill to drive it.
Monitor the bore often because you can't put the metal back. Remember, all you are trying to do is smooth the surface.
Quote from Reloader on October 18, 2012, 11:36 pm#2 recommend powder graphite, cost a couple dollars at the local hardware store, works for all things when having friction problems
#2 recommend powder graphite, cost a couple dollars at the local hardware store, works for all things when having friction problems