Super Swage
Quote from Reloader on May 3, 2008, 1:32 pmI'm looking at purchasing the Super Swage 600 for the .223 Mil. crimps. Is there any other equipment I'll have to purchase along with it? Does the swage remove spent primer along with the crimp, then I'm good to load or is there more to it? I usually just stick with non-mil brass but have been collecting crimped brass for awhile and really hate to toss it.
Thanks for the help.
I'm looking at purchasing the Super Swage 600 for the .223 Mil. crimps. Is there any other equipment I'll have to purchase along with it? Does the swage remove spent primer along with the crimp, then I'm good to load or is there more to it? I usually just stick with non-mil brass but have been collecting crimped brass for awhile and really hate to toss it.
Thanks for the help.
Quote from Reloader on May 6, 2008, 6:41 amI own the Swage 600 and no, it will not deprime the brass, it will only swage the military crimp from the deprimed case. In my opinion, this device is well worth the price as with practice, it has been super fast and works well. Basically, you should deprime all your military crimped brass, then run them through the Swager, then lube, then size and load.
I get rather miffed on other forums when I hear someone scoffing at the price because it's not only a time saver, it also saves your fingers from the callouses of chamfering all the primer pockets. That, my friends, is well worth the price tag. :)
I own the Swage 600 and no, it will not deprime the brass, it will only swage the military crimp from the deprimed case. In my opinion, this device is well worth the price as with practice, it has been super fast and works well. Basically, you should deprime all your military crimped brass, then run them through the Swager, then lube, then size and load.
I get rather miffed on other forums when I hear someone scoffing at the price because it's not only a time saver, it also saves your fingers from the callouses of chamfering all the primer pockets. That, my friends, is well worth the price tag. :)
Quote from Reloader on May 7, 2008, 2:43 pmRight now reloadable brass is too expensive to casually toss. You must deprime the cases prior to swaging the primer pocket. Either deprime in the size die, or use a universal depriming die to accomplish this.
Right now reloadable brass is too expensive to casually toss. You must deprime the cases prior to swaging the primer pocket. Either deprime in the size die, or use a universal depriming die to accomplish this.
Quote from Reloader on May 19, 2008, 10:58 pmWill the depriming pin on the XL650 handle pushing out the primers on the Greek HXP .30-06 cases? If it's also going to resize the neck, it seems that I'd have run it through station 1 again, and "re-resize" it.
Do I need to use the Super Swage for those particular cases, even though they're Boxer primed? I'm trying to get all of my gear together before I start reloading that brass, which means I am only loading handgun ammo on my Square Deal B (which performs quite nicely, thank you.)
Thanks,
Will the depriming pin on the XL650 handle pushing out the primers on the Greek HXP .30-06 cases? If it's also going to resize the neck, it seems that I'd have run it through station 1 again, and "re-resize" it.
Do I need to use the Super Swage for those particular cases, even though they're Boxer primed? I'm trying to get all of my gear together before I start reloading that brass, which means I am only loading handgun ammo on my Square Deal B (which performs quite nicely, thank you.)
Thanks,
Quote from Reloader on May 21, 2008, 5:54 pmJoe,
Dillon rifle dies are designed to deprime military boxer-primed cases, such as the Greek 30-06 ammunition. This brass must be swaged to remove the crimp in order to be able to seat a new primer.
Joe,
Dillon rifle dies are designed to deprime military boxer-primed cases, such as the Greek 30-06 ammunition. This brass must be swaged to remove the crimp in order to be able to seat a new primer.