wad guide sleeve and hull interference
Quote from rhodesengr on June 24, 2025, 9:05 pmDid my first run of 100 on my SL900 on Sunday. I had one serious operational issue. Several time I felt resistance on the down stroke. Took me a while to figure out that the wad guide sleeve (part #16678) was partially down and hitting the hull as the wad swing arm was moving ov the hull. I didn't tale a photo but I am pretty sure, it was not because the hull was too tall but because either the sleeve started down too soon or had not returned to fully up after the previous cycle. I've since oiled the sleev but maybe the spring 16679 is not quite strong eneough? I'll see what happenes on the next run. As a redult of this, the shell plate advanced without completing the cycle.
is there a way to index the shell plate backwards? Or do I have to manually move the hulls in each stage back one position?
Did my first run of 100 on my SL900 on Sunday. I had one serious operational issue. Several time I felt resistance on the down stroke. Took me a while to figure out that the wad guide sleeve (part #16678) was partially down and hitting the hull as the wad swing arm was moving ov the hull. I didn't tale a photo but I am pretty sure, it was not because the hull was too tall but because either the sleeve started down too soon or had not returned to fully up after the previous cycle. I've since oiled the sleev but maybe the spring 16679 is not quite strong eneough? I'll see what happenes on the next run. As a redult of this, the shell plate advanced without completing the cycle.
is there a way to index the shell plate backwards? Or do I have to manually move the hulls in each stage back one position?
Quote from The Human Manual on June 25, 2025, 7:09 pmThe spring should hold the wad guide sleeve up. Use a very light oil on the outside of the sleeve, that should allow it to pop up fully after the wad is seated. You cannot back the shellplate up during normal use. To do so otherwise you would have to remove the shellplate and then remove the index pawl from the top of the ring indexer. Doing this prevents the shellplate from rotating automatically though.
The spring should hold the wad guide sleeve up. Use a very light oil on the outside of the sleeve, that should allow it to pop up fully after the wad is seated. You cannot back the shellplate up during normal use. To do so otherwise you would have to remove the shellplate and then remove the index pawl from the top of the ring indexer. Doing this prevents the shellplate from rotating automatically though.
Quote from cutter2001 on August 21, 2025, 1:51 pmIf these are once fired Remington STS or Nitro27's they are likely .10" too tall and the wad guide is catching the outer portion of the shell and will always crumple or crack the petals. There is a cutting tool that you can buy to trim that small amount off of the shell. That fixes the problem. You have to measure the hull with calipers. If it measures 2.810 its too long to work in any machine. 2.710 is the required length.
If these are once fired Remington STS or Nitro27's they are likely .10" too tall and the wad guide is catching the outer portion of the shell and will always crumple or crack the petals. There is a cutting tool that you can buy to trim that small amount off of the shell. That fixes the problem. You have to measure the hull with calipers. If it measures 2.810 its too long to work in any machine. 2.710 is the required length.