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Why not WD-40 and other questions about lubrication of moving parts

I'm looking to understand and better clean and lube my 550.

In my search I found this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BSyIeIfVFw

I'm looking to understand this a little bit more.

Not to make this too long my questions are:

1. What are the risks of using WD40 or similar products and why are them bad for a reloading press? I don't mean spraying it on the 550c but using a damped cloth to put a very fine layer in metallic parts that may rust or in some metallic parts that rub against other metallic parts. (primer sliding bar and it's metallic plate, the shell plate, etc..)

2. The video says nothing about lubricating the priming slide and the metallic plate it slides over. It's metal rubbing on metal, seams like it should be lubricated. Also if I use grease it will son stick to any residue that comes from the reloading process and will get stuck (only did that once and never again). So what should I use?

3. Shell plate is also metal on metal, and also feel like it should be lubricated. I've have noticed after some use it gets a little stiff, but cleaning solves the problem. Should this be lubricated with something? If grease is recommended, won't it stick with residue from the reloading process and get stuck?

Thanks

WD-40 doesn't have enough viscosity to stay put and too much will migrate to places you don't want it. You mentioned a video and there are several that talk about greasing certain parts.

The primer slide plate had a special coating on it which over time and many thousands of rounds will wear off as indicated by the two silver streaks where the primer bar slides in and out. That plate can be replaced when you start experiencing stickiness, assuming it's not a mis-adjustment or dirt accumulation.

Too much grease anywhere will surely collect spent primer residue and carbon and make a mess out of your machine.

Although I keep WD-40 on my garage work bench, I use it only to clean moisture off of tools that have been subjected to water or similar substance. I agree that it has very limited viscosity that limits its use on my Dillon tools.

I have experimented with many lubricating substances and methods over nearly fifty years of reloading. I didn't make the video you referenced, but I think it is as good a reference as could be made. And to be perfectly clear, I thought the questions you raised were thought provoking.

Having said all that, reloaders in general are innovators; proven simply by looking at all the proposed solutions posted to the minor but common problem of the malfunctioning spent primer chute. My point is, feel free to experiment, evaluate and report back to us.

Best

Terry

The video posted is from Dillon´s official YT. And goes over this subject, I haven't found a written similar document from dillon to reference.

My primer slide plate is worn out but still working just fine (when not greased). I have to be well over 15.000 + rounds now. I might have used too much grease that one time I tried. I will try again in the future and come back to report.

Regarding the excessive use of WD-40, I agree it's an issue if it gets somewhere you don't want it. That's why I never spray it and damp a cloth in it to just apply a very thin layer.

Anyhow, being that it's Dillon's official video that says "no WD-40" it would be great to have a response from someone on their team to see why this is not recommended.

WD-40 is a good product only when used within some parameters.

It is primarily a cleaner but has little or no ability to protect parts from moisture, regardless of what the label says.

It comes in a handy spray container.

If you need to grease something like your press links, then, by all means, use an automotive-type "suspension" grease.

Lubrication of rotating parts like the shell plate pivot works wonderfully with a firearms lubricant like CLP or Remoil. I don't know about you, but I am forever removing the shell plate and cleaning the pivot and ball detent/spring. I re-lube every time.

"Clean" is the word for the primer feed bar.

As to adult lubrication (i.e. whiskey), I save that for AFTER working with ammunition fabrication.

WD-40 can also be used as a lubricant for small drill bits and as a penetrant.

No WD-40 goes onto any of my firearms or steel parts that may rust. Let me tell you about a new Winchester Model 94 stored in a closet...

Reloader and Chappy133 have reacted to this post.
ReloaderChappy133

For the primer slide and the metallic plate it slides over, I use a little powered graphite. Have to clean once in a while, then I use rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab. When dried, then re-apply powered graphite. Slick movement

Xiphos, CAPTSeabee and rodinal220 have reacted to this post.
XiphosCAPTSeabeerodinal220

Graphite is an excellent suggestion! You can get small tubes for lubricating locks that will last a lifetime.

My issue has always been losing them.

I know they (all seven of them) are in very safe places. I just can never find one when I'm thinking about it except the glove box of my truck.

Thumbs up on the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BSyIeIfVFw

Nothing in the written manual addresses 75% of the lube points shown in the video.  Of course, maybe I am a poor reader.

It made me go lube the machine and in some areas for the first time.   LOL

WD and grease along with most oils make a mess of the press from top to bottom. I clean with WD wipe down after tearing down the press. I use a good wax job to coat all areas of the press. Then it is easy to wipe clean till the next cleaning. Now I use Mother's spray wax on the total press. I wipe it on and off.

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